HF HF Email! Internet Not Required!

[CommoFreq]

Hey Everyone,

So, yes. There is an email system that can operate independent of that information super-highway that we call "the internet", using an HF radio of your choice, and a sound card interface. This was the idea when the system was first designed (it's been improved upon, and we'll get into that a bit later). First, I will explain how it works, and then I will provide installation and operation instructions.

So, buckle-in, this is going to be a MONSTER post!

Oh, and before we go any further, just know that a lot of HF hams out there HATE people who are using this system. Oh well. They'll get over it.

Here's How it Works

There are 5 "main hubs" located around the world. Those hubs are:

• San Diego, CA
• Brentwood, TN
• Halifax, England
• Vienna, Austria
• Perth, Australia

All 5 hubs are able to communicate digitally with each other on HF. Under ideal conditions, you should be able to establish a connection directly to one of those hubs. When you send an email while connected to one of the hubs, the hub will accept it, store it, and then forward it to the other 4 hubs as well, so that your recipient can access the incoming email on any of the hubs around the world.

To do this, you will use an email client, which will handle all of this for you, automatically. The client interfaces with your radio, in the same way that, FLDIGI does, for example. The difference is, the client will be sending all kinds of commands to your radio without you needing to get involved. It works like Outlook. Anyway, back to how the system works. . .

There are also a kazillion relay stations that are a part of this network, for those who cannot get a direct connection to a hub. This, of course, might be simply due to too much traffic, and not necessarily a propagation issue (it is estimated that there are over 20,000 users world-wide at the moment). Anyhow, the point is, as long as you can send and receive email from a hub or a relay station, then you are in business! They will process the flow of the message to the recipient for you!

When this system was first introduced, it relied exclusively on PACTOR modems to send and receive data. However, those things aren't cheap, and so a sound card version was developed so that no special modems are needed. If you do have a PACTOR modem, you can still use it, though. In fact, more relay stations are still using that instead of the sound card (or WINMOR) way of doing it. They say PACTOR is a bit faster. As far as I'm concerned, that's not worth spending over $1k for a PACTOR modem. I would need a better reason than that.

Oh, did I mention that it can also work P2P?

Download and Installation

Now, I know what you're thinking - you can just download and install it. And, you're partly right. But starting a few weeks ago, they started a new requirement that you create an account with them, and this process is kinda weird. So calm down and follow these steps to the "T":

STEP 1: Download RMS Express

RMS Express is the actual client program that you will use. It's a lot like Outlook, but with some extra stuff that allows communication with your radio. As with everything else, download it, unzip it, and install it. Then, run it.

STEP 2: Setting it Up (The Client Itself)

I think the new version has a wizard of some kind that helps you to set up your initial (basic) settings, such as your ham radio call sign, grid location, etc. Here is a .pdf file from MARS that has a setup procedure, as well as some other stuff that you don't really need. This part isn't too difficult.

Make sure that when you enter in your call sign, you add a password. In the past, this was optional. In the next few weeks, the system will not work for you, unless you are registered. This can be any password you want.

STEP 3: Registration

Right now, you are using this client in the "internet mode", because you haven't set up your radio settings yet. In this respect, it functions exactly like Outlook. Before you create an account, you will need to send an email to yourself - preferably, your normal email address. Remember, you should have entered in a password of your choosing during your setup process (step 2).

Click the first icon in the upper left corner (New Message), and fill in the "To" and "Subject" boxes, and a test message of some sort. Then, press "Post to Outbox". It will take you back to the main screen. Then, click "Open Session" at the top center, and a new box will open, showing you the dialog of what is happening as the message is being sent. Once it's finished, you may simply close that box.

(Note: To just check your email in the future, all you have to do is click the "Open Session" button. If there is any new mail for you, it will be downloaded during this process, and posted to your inbox.)

Go to your other email account, and make sure the message went through. If it did, then you may finally register. Go to the Winlink website, and enter in your call sign in the lower box. Click the "Send my Password" box. Congratulations, you are registered.

Radio Configuration

First, the bad news: This is probably going to be a bitch. Take a deep breath and stay with me.
The good news? You only have to do it once.

If you aren't already using digital modes, and have never interfaced your computer and radio together, you need to stop what you are doing and make that happen. Get FLDIGI and follow their instructions. If you are already using digital modes, and you know what COM ports your radio is using, then you may proceed.

So, you already sent out an email using the "internet mode" of this client. By the way, that is called "Telnet WL2K". In your client, toward the top, you will see that in a drop-down box. This drop-down box is actually all of the different methods that you can use to communicate with a hub or relay station. They aren't self-explanitory, but hey - you're only interested in "Winmor WL2K" right now. So find that in the drop-down box, and select it.

Click "Open Session".

You'll notice immediately that something different happened. You get two pop-up boxes. In the left box, you will see what appears to be a waterfall meter and some crosshairs. Ignore that box. In the other box, you will see that looks like a large text field area. This is the box we will be working with.

See the "Setup" menu toward the top? Go ahead. You know what to do. And then, select "Radio Setup" from the drop menu. Hopefully, your radio is somewhere in the list. It should be - it's a big ass list. Setup your COM ports and baud rates that you use with your other programs. Once everything is right, click "Update". It will let you know if the settings are right or wrong.

Next, you will need to get a list of relay stations and hubs and such, to connect to. As long as you aren't moving around and you live in one place, you should only need to do this once as well. Click on "Channel Selection" at the top, and a new box will pop up. Click on "Update Table via Internet". This is where the cool stuff starts to happen.

When you did your client setup, you entered in your grid locator. RMS Express takes that information and computes propagation probability for you. So, the list of stations that you see are arranged in order from most likely to least likely to work. So, double-click on the first station. It is now the station that you will attempt to communicate with. And, your radio should have changed frequency as needed.

You may, or may not hear traffic. If you do, then you should wait to send/receive email. Now is a good time for you to close out those two boxes, compose an email, and post it to your outbox. Click on "Open Session" once more, and if everything is correct and you get no error popups, you may click "Start" located toward the top of the larger window (the one you were working with earlier).

Sit back, and watch the process. It's kinda slow, but it's interesting and reliable. There you have it - email without internet. I know, some pictures would have been nice, so, if there's something you don't understand, just post a comment below, and I'll help you out.

 

[Clyde]

Hey Everyone,

So, yes. There is an email system that can operate independent of that information super-highway that we call "the internet", using an HF radio of your choice, and a sound card interface. This was the idea when the system was first designed (it's been improved upon, and we'll get into that a bit later). First, I will explain how it works, and then I will provide installation and operation instructions.

So, buckle-in, this is going to be a MONSTER post!

Oh, and before we go any further, just know that a lot of HF hams out there HATE people who are using this system. Oh well. They'll get over it.

Here's How it Works

There are 5 "main hubs" located around the world. Those hubs are:

• San Diego, CA
• Brentwood, TN
• Halifax, England
• Vienna, Austria
• Perth, Australia

All 5 hubs are able to communicate digitally with each other on HF. Under ideal conditions, you should be able to establish a connection directly to one of those hubs. When you send an email while connected to one of the hubs, the hub will accept it, store it, and then forward it to the other 4 hubs as well, so that your recipient can access the incoming email on any of the hubs around the world.

To do this, you will use an email client, which will handle all of this for you, automatically. The client interfaces with your radio, in the same way that, FLDIGI does, for example. The difference is, the client will be sending all kinds of commands to your radio without you needing to get involved. It works like Outlook. Anyway, back to how the system works. . .

There are also a kazillion relay stations that are a part of this network, for those who cannot get a direct connection to a hub. This, of course, might be simply due to too much traffic, and not necessarily a propagation issue (it is estimated that there are over 20,000 users world-wide at the moment). Anyhow, the point is, as long as you can send and receive email from a hub or a relay station, then you are in business! They will process the flow of the message to the recipient for you!

When this system was first introduced, it relied exclusively on PACTOR modems to send and receive data. However, those things aren't cheap, and so a sound card version was developed so that no special modems are needed. If you do have a PACTOR modem, you can still use it, though. In fact, more relay stations are still using that instead of the sound card (or WINMOR) way of doing it. They say PACTOR is a bit faster. As far as I'm concerned, that's not worth spending over $1k for a PACTOR modem. I would need a better reason than that.

Oh, did I mention that it can also work P2P?

Download and Installation

Now, I know what you're thinking - you can just download and install it. And, you're partly right. But starting a few weeks ago, they started a new requirement that you create an account with them, and this process is kinda weird. So calm down and follow these steps to the "T":

STEP 1: Download RMS Express

RMS Express is the actual client program that you will use. It's a lot like Outlook, but with some extra stuff that allows communication with your radio. As with everything else, download it, unzip it, and install it. Then, run it.

STEP 2: Setting it Up (The Client Itself)

I think the new version has a wizard of some kind that helps you to set up your initial (basic) settings, such as your ham radio call sign, grid location, etc. Here is a .pdf file from MARS that has a setup procedure, as well as some other stuff that you don't really need. This part isn't too difficult.

Make sure that when you enter in your call sign, you add a password. In the past, this was optional. In the next few weeks, the system will not work for you, unless you are registered. This can be any password you want.

STEP 3: Registration

Right now, you are using this client in the "internet mode", because you haven't set up your radio settings yet. In this respect, it functions exactly like Outlook. Before you create an account, you will need to send an email to yourself - preferably, your normal email address. Remember, you should have entered in a password of your choosing during your setup process (step 2).

Click the first icon in the upper left corner (New Message), and fill in the "To" and "Subject" boxes, and a test message of some sort. Then, press "Post to Outbox". It will take you back to the main screen. Then, click "Open Session" at the top center, and a new box will open, showing you the dialog of what is happening as the message is being sent. Once it's finished, you may simply close that box.

(Note: To just check your email in the future, all you have to do is click the "Open Session" button. If there is any new mail for you, it will be downloaded during this process, and posted to your inbox.)

Go to your other email account, and make sure the message went through. If it did, then you may finally register. Go to the Winlink website, and enter in your call sign in the lower box. Click the "Send my Password" box. Congratulations, you are registered.

Radio Configuration

First, the bad news: This is probably going to be a bitch. Take a deep breath and stay with me.
The good news? You only have to do it once.

If you aren't already using digital modes, and have never interfaced your computer and radio together, you need to stop what you are doing and make that happen. Get FLDIGI and follow their instructions. If you are already using digital modes, and you know what COM ports your radio is using, then you may proceed.

So, you already sent out an email using the "internet mode" of this client. By the way, that is called "Telnet WL2K". In your client, toward the top, you will see that in a drop-down box. This drop-down box is actually all of the different methods that you can use to communicate with a hub or relay station. They aren't self-explanitory, but hey - you're only interested in "Winmor WL2K" right now. So find that in the drop-down box, and select it.

Click "Open Session".

You'll notice immediately that something different happened. You get two pop-up boxes. In the left box, you will see what appears to be a waterfall meter and some crosshairs. Ignore that box. In the other box, you will see that looks like a large text field area. This is the box we will be working with.

See the "Setup" menu toward the top? Go ahead. You know what to do. And then, select "Radio Setup" from the drop menu. Hopefully, your radio is somewhere in the list. It should be - it's a big ass list. Setup your COM ports and baud rates that you use with your other programs. Once everything is right, click "Update". It will let you know if the settings are right or wrong.

Next, you will need to get a list of relay stations and hubs and such, to connect to. As long as you aren't moving around and you live in one place, you should only need to do this once as well. Click on "Channel Selection" at the top, and a new box will pop up. Click on "Update Table via Internet". This is where the cool stuff starts to happen.

When you did your client setup, you entered in your grid locator. RMS Express takes that information and computes propagation probability for you. So, the list of stations that you see are arranged in order from most likely to least likely to work. So, double-click on the first station. It is now the station that you will attempt to communicate with. And, your radio should have changed frequency as needed.

You may, or may not hear traffic. If you do, then you should wait to send/receive email. Now is a good time for you to close out those two boxes, compose an email, and post it to your outbox. Click on "Open Session" once more, and if everything is correct and you get no error popups, you may click "Start" located toward the top of the larger window (the one you were working with earlier).

Sit back, and watch the process. It's kinda slow, but it's interesting and reliable. There you have it - email without internet. I know, some pictures would have been nice, so, if there's something you don't understand, just post a comment below, and I'll help you out.

Thank you for making this post! This is a new area for me. I will try this out! Thanks again!

 

[Silent Earth]

Oh I have to snaffle this and share it on a UK group, Can I have permission PLEASE? NR

 

[CommoFreq]

Oh I have to snaffle this and share it on a UK group, Can I have permission PLEASE? NR

By all means. And my apologies for the delayed response.

 

[Clyde]

Hey Everyone,

So, yes. There is an email system that can operate independent of that information super-highway that we call "the internet", using an HF radio of your choice, and a sound card interface. This was the idea when the system was first designed (it's been improved upon, and we'll get into that a bit later). First, I will explain how it works, and then I will provide installation and operation instructions.

So, buckle-in, this is going to be a MONSTER post!

Oh, and before we go any further, just know that a lot of HF hams out there HATE people who are using this system. Oh well. They'll get over it.

Here's How it Works

There are 5 "main hubs" located around the world. Those hubs are:

• San Diego, CA
• Brentwood, TN
• Halifax, England
• Vienna, Austria
• Perth, Australia

All 5 hubs are able to communicate digitally with each other on HF. Under ideal conditions, you should be able to establish a connection directly to one of those hubs. When you send an email while connected to one of the hubs, the hub will accept it, store it, and then forward it to the other 4 hubs as well, so that your recipient can access the incoming email on any of the hubs around the world.

To do this, you will use an email client, which will handle all of this for you, automatically. The client interfaces with your radio, in the same way that, FLDIGI does, for example. The difference is, the client will be sending all kinds of commands to your radio without you needing to get involved. It works like Outlook. Anyway, back to how the system works. . .

There are also a kazillion relay stations that are a part of this network, for those who cannot get a direct connection to a hub. This, of course, might be simply due to too much traffic, and not necessarily a propagation issue (it is estimated that there are over 20,000 users world-wide at the moment). Anyhow, the point is, as long as you can send and receive email from a hub or a relay station, then you are in business! They will process the flow of the message to the recipient for you!

When this system was first introduced, it relied exclusively on PACTOR modems to send and receive data. However, those things aren't cheap, and so a sound card version was developed so that no special modems are needed. If you do have a PACTOR modem, you can still use it, though. In fact, more relay stations are still using that instead of the sound card (or WINMOR) way of doing it. They say PACTOR is a bit faster. As far as I'm concerned, that's not worth spending over $1k for a PACTOR modem. I would need a better reason than that.

Oh, did I mention that it can also work P2P?

Download and Installation

Now, I know what you're thinking - you can just download and install it. And, you're partly right. But starting a few weeks ago, they started a new requirement that you create an account with them, and this process is kinda weird. So calm down and follow these steps to the "T":

STEP 1: Download RMS Express

RMS Express is the actual client program that you will use. It's a lot like Outlook, but with some extra stuff that allows communication with your radio. As with everything else, download it, unzip it, and install it. Then, run it.

STEP 2: Setting it Up (The Client Itself)

I think the new version has a wizard of some kind that helps you to set up your initial (basic) settings, such as your ham radio call sign, grid location, etc. Here is a .pdf file from MARS that has a setup procedure, as well as some other stuff that you don't really need. This part isn't too difficult.

Make sure that when you enter in your call sign, you add a password. In the past, this was optional. In the next few weeks, the system will not work for you, unless you are registered. This can be any password you want.

STEP 3: Registration

Right now, you are using this client in the "internet mode", because you haven't set up your radio settings yet. In this respect, it functions exactly like Outlook. Before you create an account, you will need to send an email to yourself - preferably, your normal email address. Remember, you should have entered in a password of your choosing during your setup process (step 2).

Click the first icon in the upper left corner (New Message), and fill in the "To" and "Subject" boxes, and a test message of some sort. Then, press "Post to Outbox". It will take you back to the main screen. Then, click "Open Session" at the top center, and a new box will open, showing you the dialog of what is happening as the message is being sent. Once it's finished, you may simply close that box.

(Note: To just check your email in the future, all you have to do is click the "Open Session" button. If there is any new mail for you, it will be downloaded during this process, and posted to your inbox.)

Go to your other email account, and make sure the message went through. If it did, then you may finally register. Go to the Winlink website, and enter in your call sign in the lower box. Click the "Send my Password" box. Congratulations, you are registered.

Radio Configuration

First, the bad news: This is probably going to be a bitch. Take a deep breath and stay with me.
The good news? You only have to do it once.

If you aren't already using digital modes, and have never interfaced your computer and radio together, you need to stop what you are doing and make that happen. Get FLDIGI and follow their instructions. If you are already using digital modes, and you know what COM ports your radio is using, then you may proceed.

So, you already sent out an email using the "internet mode" of this client. By the way, that is called "Telnet WL2K". In your client, toward the top, you will see that in a drop-down box. This drop-down box is actually all of the different methods that you can use to communicate with a hub or relay station. They aren't self-explanitory, but hey - you're only interested in "Winmor WL2K" right now. So find that in the drop-down box, and select it.

Click "Open Session".

You'll notice immediately that something different happened. You get two pop-up boxes. In the left box, you will see what appears to be a waterfall meter and some crosshairs. Ignore that box. In the other box, you will see that looks like a large text field area. This is the box we will be working with.

See the "Setup" menu toward the top? Go ahead. You know what to do. And then, select "Radio Setup" from the drop menu. Hopefully, your radio is somewhere in the list. It should be - it's a big ass list. Setup your COM ports and baud rates that you use with your other programs. Once everything is right, click "Update". It will let you know if the settings are right or wrong.

Next, you will need to get a list of relay stations and hubs and such, to connect to. As long as you aren't moving around and you live in one place, you should only need to do this once as well. Click on "Channel Selection" at the top, and a new box will pop up. Click on "Update Table via Internet". This is where the cool stuff starts to happen.

When you did your client setup, you entered in your grid locator. RMS Express takes that information and computes propagation probability for you. So, the list of stations that you see are arranged in order from most likely to least likely to work. So, double-click on the first station. It is now the station that you will attempt to communicate with. And, your radio should have changed frequency as needed.

You may, or may not hear traffic. If you do, then you should wait to send/receive email. Now is a good time for you to close out those two boxes, compose an email, and post it to your outbox. Click on "Open Session" once more, and if everything is correct and you get no error popups, you may click "Start" located toward the top of the larger window (the one you were working with earlier).

Sit back, and watch the process. It's kinda slow, but it's interesting and reliable. There you have it - email without internet. I know, some pictures would have been nice, so, if there's something you don't understand, just post a comment below, and I'll help you out.

I know of someone who uses this on his YouTube Channel constantly. I have never tried it, and since the bands have been in the dumps of late it seems sketchy right now. Does it work better on any particular band? With regard to radios... have you found a certain one working better than another? I use an Icom IC-7200 as it has a USB-B port already installed for what I believe is a sound card..... Sorry I am not the most technically astute person on the planet.

 

[CommoFreq]

Okay to answer your questions:

1. Some radios do work better than others. My fav is the discontinued IC-7000. It's not as easy to interface to a computer as say, the IC-7100 or IC-7200 like you have, but, performance-wise, it is superb. The IC-7100 is just as good with data, but with voice, is severely lacking. Anyhow, just a little tip that you need to know about ALL radios, is that when you are using digital mode, such as this HF email service, you don't want to go higher than 50 watts out of the radio. Anything more, and you run the risk of burning up your radio. If 50 watts doesn't do the trick (which it should, 90% of the time), chances are, your problem is something else. (Yeah, I know - it took me a little while to actually trust that as well, but it's true.)

2. If all you have is a USB interface from the radio to the computer, then life is much easier for you to set it up. Unplug your USB cable from the computer. Go to Settings>Control Panel>Device Manager, and look at your COM ports. Plug your cable in, and you'll see two new COM ports in use. Take note of which ones they are - you'll need that info when you do the setup procedure. Ideally, they'll be right next to each other (i.e. COM6 and COM7). If not, no big deal. This is your soundcard and your push-to-talk ports. One controls the sounds coming in and out, and the other keys your radio when the program tells it to. Not sure which is which - it's different for every radio. So when you go to enter them in on the setup procedure, and it doesn't work, go back and try switching them around.

Also, when everything is hooked up, and the radio is transmitting via computer command, it should show you the USB-D mode. If it doesn't transmit, try manually putting your radio in USB-D mode - that should take care of that kind of problem. Yeah. That one had me racking my brain for 2 weeks, checking and rechecking my settings on the computer. For nothing.

3. Your 3rd question is a bit more complicated. In short, it just depends on where you are, and how far you're trying to shoot to. Allow me to explain. . .

Here's the general rule of thumb:

For "long range" (oh, say, 500 miles or more), you'll want to use higher frequencies (generally 14.070 to 29.999 MHz), and, very very low frequencies on AM (3MHz and below). Very few use the latter, given the size of the antenna you'll need. As such, you won't find a lot of HF email service below 3MHz anyway. The best antenna to use for "long range" at 14 MHz or above, is an appropriately sized normal whip antenna. A dipole works too - that's what I used a lot. In fact, I made contacts from Germany to Brazil on 28MHz with a dipole. It's just not. . . optimal.

For "short range" (oh, say, 500 miles or less), you'll want to use everything in between (that's between 3MHz and 14 MHz). You can do this easily with a regular dipole antenna, but if you really want the best connection possible, then you'll want to use a NVIS style antenna. NOTE: If you are using a whip antenna in this frequency range, it is probably not going to work very well. There is a compromise, though:

You need the signal to hit the ionosphere at an angle of less than 90 degrees. When you use a whip, it goes straight out toward the horizon. The best compromise, is to angle the whip away from the direction that you're trying to shoot to. So, if you are in Atlanta, and you want to reach Richmond, then you know that you are shooting due north (pretty much). So, lean your whip as if you are pointing the tip of the antenna due south. The actual angle to lean it to, is a matter of trial and error. Start with 45 degrees. This isn't that hard - most angles will work. More than 30, less than 60 should get it every time.

So, if this is the case, then it really, really helps to know where the station is that you are trying to connect to.

Of course, it's not so concrete either. Think of each frequency as the best frequency for a specific distance.

For example, if you're going for "short range", 7MHz is going to work better at 250 miles than, say, 10MHz, which is more of a "500 mile" kinda frequency. As for "long range", 14MHz is better for 1,000 miles, whereas 28 MHz is better for 3,000 miles. A lot of people get too caught up in the "general rule of thumb" by putting everything nicely and neatly into boxes, but commo doesn't work that way. And it gets worse when you're looking at a particular station, and NONE of the available frequencies are "perfect" frequencies to use, from where you are.

So, the trick is, of course, to try for the nearest station to you. Find out where it is, and then try to connect to it on the appropriate band. The program should do that for you automatically, after you enter in your maidenhead grid locator in the setup process. But, to find out the actual distance, you can google the station and see its physical location. After a while, you'll be able to just look at the call sign and have a close enough ballpark figure to determine which station frequency you should use, because the call sign tells you at least a little something about the location.

If it's less than 500 miles away, and you try connecting to it on 14 MHz, you're just going to end up shooting right over it, for example. Especially if you're using a vertical whip, but this is also true if you are using a dipole.

It's for this reason that most stations will have different frequencies for you to use in order to communicate with that station - so that people both "near" and "far" can connect. And bear in mind, this "general rule of thumb" isn't just for the HF email. This is true for all HF communications, voice, and digital.

If you need more specific info than that, shoot me a PM and we can get more specific as far as locations and distances go.

 

[Clyde]

Okay to answer your questions:

1. Some radios do work better than others. My fav is the discontinued IC-7000. It's not as easy to interface to a computer as say, the IC-7100 or IC-7200 like you have, but, performance-wise, it is superb. The IC-7100 is just as good with data, but with voice, is severely lacking. Anyhow, just a little tip that you need to know about ALL radios, is that when you are using digital mode, such as this HF email service, you don't want to go higher than 50 watts out of the radio. Anything more, and you run the risk of burning up your radio. If 50 watts doesn't do the trick (which it should, 90% of the time), chances are, your problem is something else. (Yeah, I know - it took me a little while to actually trust that as well, but it's true.)

2. If all you have is a USB interface from the radio to the computer, then life is much easier for you to set it up. Unplug your USB cable from the computer. Go to Settings>Control Panel>Device Manager, and look at your COM ports. Plug your cable in, and you'll see two new COM ports in use. Take note of which ones they are - you'll need that info when you do the setup procedure. Ideally, they'll be right next to each other (i.e. COM6 and COM7). If not, no big deal. This is your soundcard and your push-to-talk ports. One controls the sounds coming in and out, and the other keys your radio when the program tells it to. Not sure which is which - it's different for every radio. So when you go to enter them in on the setup procedure, and it doesn't work, go back and try switching them around.

Also, when everything is hooked up, and the radio is transmitting via computer command, it should show you the USB-D mode. If it doesn't transmit, try manually putting your radio in USB-D mode - that should take care of that kind of problem. Yeah. That one had me racking my brain for 2 weeks, checking and rechecking my settings on the computer. For nothing.

3. Your 3rd question is a bit more complicated. In short, it just depends on where you are, and how far you're trying to shoot to. Allow me to explain. . .

Here's the general rule of thumb:

For "long range" (oh, say, 500 miles or more), you'll want to use higher frequencies (generally 14.070 to 29.999 MHz), and, very very low frequencies on AM (3MHz and below). Very few use the latter, given the size of the antenna you'll need. As such, you won't find a lot of HF email service below 3MHz anyway. The best antenna to use for "long range" at 14 MHz or above, is an appropriately sized normal whip antenna. A dipole works too - that's what I used a lot. In fact, I made contacts from Germany to Brazil on 28MHz with a dipole. It's just not. . . optimal.

For "short range" (oh, say, 500 miles or less), you'll want to use everything in between (that's between 3MHz and 14 MHz). You can do this easily with a regular dipole antenna, but if you really want the best connection possible, then you'll want to use a NVIS style antenna. NOTE: If you are using a whip antenna in this frequency range, it is probably not going to work very well. There is a compromise, though:

You need the signal to hit the ionosphere at an angle of less than 90 degrees. When you use a whip, it goes straight out toward the horizon. The best compromise, is to angle the whip away from the direction that you're trying to shoot to. So, if you are in Atlanta, and you want to reach Richmond, then you know that you are shooting due north (pretty much). So, lean your whip as if you are pointing the tip of the antenna due south. The actual angle to lean it to, is a matter of trial and error. Start with 45 degrees. This isn't that hard - most angles will work. More than 30, less than 60 should get it every time.

So, if this is the case, then it really, really helps to know where the station is that you are trying to connect to.

Of course, it's not so concrete either. Think of each frequency as the best frequency for a specific distance.

For example, if you're going for "short range", 7MHz is going to work better at 250 miles than, say, 10MHz, which is more of a "500 mile" kinda frequency. As for "long range", 14MHz is better for 1,000 miles, whereas 28 MHz is better for 3,000 miles. A lot of people get too caught up in the "general rule of thumb" by putting everything nicely and neatly into boxes, but commo doesn't work that way. And it gets worse when you're looking at a particular station, and NONE of the available frequencies are "perfect" frequencies to use, from where you are.

So, the trick is, of course, to try for the nearest station to you. Find out where it is, and then try to connect to it on the appropriate band. The program should do that for you automatically, after you enter in your maidenhead grid locator in the setup process. But, to find out the actual distance, you can google the station and see its physical location. After a while, you'll be able to just look at the call sign and have a close enough ballpark figure to determine which station frequency you should use, because the call sign tells you at least a little something about the location.

If it's less than 500 miles away, and you try connecting to it on 14 MHz, you're just going to end up shooting right over it, for example. Especially if you're using a vertical whip, but this is also true if you are using a dipole.

It's for this reason that most stations will have different frequencies for you to use in order to communicate with that station - so that people both "near" and "far" can connect. And bear in mind, this "general rule of thumb" isn't just for the HF email. This is true for all HF communications, voice, and digital.

If you need more specific info than that, shoot me a PM and we can get more specific as far as locations and distances go.

Thank you so much for the info! To say it is a big help would be a gross understatement. The closest station to me i believe is San Diego which is about 90 - 100 miles away.

Thanks again! I will let you know how it goes once i get it all together.

 

[CommoFreq]

In that case, you want the lower freq input, dipole or NVIS antenna (or angled whip). Let me know if you got it working. If you need help, let me know that too.

 

[Clyde]

In that case, you want the lower freq input, dipole or NVIS antenna (or angled whip). Let me know if you got it working. If you need help, let me know that too.

thank you so much for the info! I will let you know!