Plumbing help, Hubby is scared to screw up.....

[havasu]

First, where is it leaking? You have an anti-siphon valve attached to the threaded portion, then the hose is attached to the anti-siphon valve. These leak all the time.
This is a quick fix, but you will need to drill out the brass set screw.

 

[Pearl]

I'm thinking about a temporary fix, I use that spigot daily!! I will be going in from the inside, see if I can cut the pipe n the wall and do a frost free! I have a lot of plumbing/pipefitting tools of my Dad, a small pipe cutter will be used! I don't think randyt will be stopping by, but the coffee is pot is going!!

 

[Pearl]

First, where is it leaking? You have an anti-siphon valve attached to the threaded portion, then the hose is attached to the anti-siphon valve. These leak all the time.
This is a quick fix, but you will need to drill out the brass set screw.

That's a quick connect on the threads. I really think replace the 47 year old spigot!! It has leaked for years, the pack washer has been replaced!

 

[Mountain trapper]

"Frost free" spigots rule!

We had those in Bama.
The water and valve part is inside.
If you don't leave a hose connected when it freezes, you can freeze it all you want... Nothing happens.

I had those on my house in Alaska. Never had one freeze. At our current place we have 10 hydrants scattered around. The hydrant at the chicken coop freezes. I think the little drain pipe at the bottom is plugged. I'll have to dig it up this summer and replace it.

 

[joel]

This is what I use for the past thirty years, because I do not have a crawl space.
It is not what it was made for, but It works.
Hose "Y" connector for two hoses.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/camco-rv-metal-garden-hose-y-valve-1031811?store=1521

 

[randyt]

I put in a hot/cold frost-free at my house so I had warm water outside. My dog had a problem getting sprayed by skunks. It v was easier to wash him outside

 

[Cabin Fever]

Youtube is your friend.

 

[UserNameTaken]

I can't tell, is that a galvanized pipe? Or just crud covered copper? I am of the Mike Holmes school of "do it right" the first time construction.

If it's copper, sweat the valve off, using a big pair of channel lock pliares to twist it off. Clean and braze a new valve on. No I wouldn't bother rebuilding the old valve after 50 years.

If not copper / easily removed, then you need to enter the wall, find good pipe or preferably a joint and repipe from there, then put a cover or re-drywall/paint, etc..

Sharkbite can work well, but only if the pipe is perfectly clean, no pitting. It's still a half assed repair.

Sorry, but do it right. You will be happier. Have fun!

 

[Pearl]

I can't tell, is that a galvanized pipe? Or just crud covered copper? I am of the Mike Holmes school of "do it right" the first time construction.

If it's copper, sweat the valve off, using a big pair of channel lock pliares to twist it off. Clean and braze a new valve on. No I wouldn't bother rebuilding the old valve after 50 years.

If not copper / easily removed, then you need to enter the wall, find good pipe or preferably a joint and repipe from there, then put a cover or re-drywall/paint, etc..

Sharkbite can work well, but only if the pipe is perfectly clean, no pitting. It's still a half assed repair.

Sorry, but do it right. You will be happier. Have fun!

Copper.

 

[UserNameTaken]

Copper.

Excellent. Should be relatively straightforward. Just heat it until the valve comes off. I would either do that freeze restistant or just braze a new valve on. If you wanted you could braze a threaded fitting on then future replacement would just be a matter of screwing a new valve on.

Actually in looking at it again, is the valve already screwed on? Looks like it. Be careful not to break any connections in the wall though. To get a pipe wrench on the pipe you'd probably need to break the mortar out.

 

[randyt]

Probably a CxMIP adapter

 

[INresponse]

Just a thought about frost free spigots. In Michigan we had the regular brass spigot soldered to a brass pipe. Occasionally it would get well below zero and we never had a faucet freeze. I am not saying it can't happen, but for ours the pipes went into our basement by the ceiling, which was about 2 feet above ground level so the warmth of the basement kept the pipe warm even though the basement temps would have been about 60 to 65 degrees or so. Unless you had problems in the past with the spigot freezing you may be OK with a more affordable conventional spigot instead of the frost free design.

 

[Pearl]

Definitely cutting sheetrock, then I'll cut the pipe in the wall. Going with frost free push to connect. Hubby is on board with that! I don't know what's wrong with him, he can do this stuff! Sometimes I have to pull some I can do that, or, I'll take care of that and then he'll jump in!!

 

[Pearl]

Hubby came up with a good idea...poke a wire from the outside next to the spigot into the sheetrock. We'll know exactly where the faucet is from the inside!!

 

[viking]

Hubby came up with a good idea...poke a wire from the outside next to the spigot into the sheetrock. We'll know exactly where the faucet is from the inside!!

This is why I always have a few 1/8" or 1/4" by one foot or longer drill bits around, good for finding a spot on the opposite wall to locate a place to put an electrical outlet within easy wiring from the outlet on the side you are drilling from.

 

[hashbrown]

It’s a frost proof I’d just unscrew it and replace it with the same length hydrant