Smoke Detectors and CO Monitors

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Haertig

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Today I've been researching smoke detectors and CO monitors. A good half of them in my house have their doors hanging open to remind me to put a new battery in. I had to remove the batteries when the stupid things started beeping - usually starting at 3:00am. I am not totally without protection though - I've got nine of the things installed in my house. I went for overkill.

Things I have learned from experience and today's research:

Don't get ones with 9volt batteries in them. A two pack of 9v's in my grocery store runs $11.99!!! You can get them powered by AA batteries now - much cheaper and more common than the 9volt batteries.

Don't get the pure ionization ones. If you are going to get the single sensor type, get a photoelectric sensor. Better is to get the dual sensor models that have BOTH photoelectric and ionization.

Do read reviews to see which ones are more prone to false alarms. I came to the conclusion (from reading reviews) that the Kidde brand is more prone to false alarms than the First Alert brand.

I prefer a CO monitor that displays actual CO levels. Many don't display anything at all. Others have a few bars to indicate the level (like the signal strength bars on your cellphone). The best ones have a true numeric display, and can show both current levels and peak level detected since you last reset it.

For CO monitors, same recommendation as smoke detectors - get the AA powered ones, not the 9v powered ones.

I see no advantage to a 120v CO monitor, other than some of them can use wiring to link to other alarms (this is additional to the power wiring, but is included in many newer houses). This way, when one goes off, they all go off. To be useful, the unit needs to have a backup battery anyway. So why not just get a battery powered one in the first place (unless you have a newer home with the linking wiring already in place)? Then you can pop the CO monitor off the wall and take it with you on vacations to be safe in your hotel room. Smoke detectors are the same - I don't care about the 120v ones, but some of those support linking as well. Some even support "wireless linking".

You can get smoke detectors that run on sealed internal ten year lithium batteries. These are about double the cost of the AA battery ones. If you figure in the cost of AA batteries for ten years, the lithium ones come out to about 1-1/2 times the cost. But you never have to change the batteries. Since smoke detectors should be replaced every ten years anyway, why not get one that includes an internal battery that lasts for that entire ten years? The bump up in total cost comes to only a few dollars, which is worth it to me to keep from dragging ladders into the house to replace batteries every year (we have vaulted ceilings everywhere).

Here's what I think I have settled on (I'm still researching though, to make sure):

Photoelectric/Ionization smoke detector (for all living areas of the house):
First Alert model SA3210 (ten year lithium battery, $47)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011O2WVC...7YOOKUHO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Photoelectric only smoke detector for non-living areas (basement, garage):
First Alert model PR710 (ten year lithium battery, $25)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ON6M53...7YOOKUHO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
CO monitor (one each for upstairs, downstairs and basement, but none for mid-level that doesn't have bedrooms)
Kidde model KN-COPP-B-LPM (3xAA batteries, suggested yearly replacement, $23)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y6V5C...M7YOOKUHO&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
 
After more research (specifically, reading this article, the paragraphs about the combination alarms):
http://www.propertyevaluation.net/Photoelectric vs Ionization Smoke Alarms - Deadly Differences.html
... I think I have decided NOT to get the First Alert SA3210 dual sensor (photoelectric and ionization) smoke detector.

Instead, I will probably get a photoelectic-only detector. If I feel the need for something using the ionization technology, I will get an additional ionization-only detector and mount it next to the photoelectric-only one.

Photoelectric-only:
First Alert PR710 (ten year lithium battery, $25)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ON6M532/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Ionization-only:
First Alert 0827B (ten year lithium battery, $20)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2FOTZO/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
The cost of these two separate units is almost identical to the cost of the single combo unit. The benefit of getting two separate units is that if the ionization one creates too many false alerts, I can just throw that one away and keep the photoelectric one (those do not have as many false alerts). Initially I may just skip the ionization-only detector, but I am not sure about that yet.

I am now also considering an alternate CO monitor. One that uses a ten year lithium battery too. I am starting to like that long lasting battery more and more. When I think of my past history, with me sometimes not changing batteries regularly enough and simply removing them when they start beeping, the long lasting battery may just protect me from my own laziness and stupidity. At least for about ten years anyway!

CO monitor:
First Alert CO710 (ten year lithium battery, $25)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011O2WW1C/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1
Sooo ... a complete model turnaround from my post above from just a few hours ago. Oh well, I tend to over-research everything I'm looking at buying. The one thing that I have determined for sure - there are too many varieties of these detectors out there. The manufacturers must intentionally be trying to confuse customers!
 
The Cincinnati Red Cross and the Colerain FD install these during their "smoke detector events":


https://a.co/d/6qMxCKz
I have 7 of those, and 2 photoelectric (https://a.co/d/0vFfEvq) , one PE on each floor. All are 10 year lithium batteries and the installation years are staggered so one or 2 will be replaced every year.

There are 2 fire extinguishers on every floor also.
 
I can't offer much advice on this topic but 2 things:

1. Most smoke detectors out there are the 9v units. When one starts chirping 'low battery', change the battery in every damn one of them!:mad:
We have 3 identical units, one in each bedroom. When one started chirping 'low battery', I changed the battery, congratulated myself, and put the ladder away:).
Within a week, the other 2 went to chirping:mad:.

2. The 120v units: there was one installed in the house we bought in Alabama.
Since I backed up 85% of the house with 5 big UPS units powered by 'the white elephant', that smoke detector chirping was the only thing that let us know the power was out:).
 
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