Make sure your boot toe can fit through the toe hole. I have large thick boots, and because the boot is wider than the toe hole, the snowshoe will follow the plane of the boot sole and dig into the snow each step. The snowshoe MUST be able to remain horizontal (pointing up even) when you pick your foot up and move forward. The energy that goes into walking in them rises exponentially if the snowshoe cannot control its own pitch.
Also, make sure they have the area to hold you up in fluffy snow without being so wide that you have to walk like a penguin, I like longer skinnier snowshoes. When I wear Tiffs, they hit each other because they were made a bit too wide. Again, make sure they allow you to walk without you feeling like you need to control the shoe. Walking awkwardly on them is the quickest way to ruin the hobby.
Ours are wood with leather bindings and very light, but I did see a neat set made of magnesium once. Having that much magnesium (and a ferro rod) would be invaluable in a cold wet environment!
actually almost bought a pair years ago - Menards is a multi-state Big Box chain here in the Upper Midwest - one of their buyers bought a crap load of decent quality snowshoes - all the stores got their store display including our locals - nobody bought them of course >>> price $$$ kept going down & down - the last of them were at giveaway pricing on the discount bin ....
we have 20"+ of snowpack as of the other day >>> it was 1979 since we hit that mark the last time - prepping is prepping but you have to stay reasonable ....
That looks similar in design to the Alaskan trail model. I prefer the wood ones myself. A good wood pair would run around $200-$300.mate, check these, price isn't bad,
https://www.varusteleka.fi/fi/product/us-magnesium-lumikengat-siteilla-ylijaama-uudenveroiset/12384
made in Canada..
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