3-Point Sprayer Tilts When Lifted

[mml373]

So I have a 3-point sprayer attached to my tractor. New to all this. When I raise the sprayer off the ground, it tilts back so it is no longer straight up and down when lifted. What is the "right way" to attach these while on the ground so that they're raised straight up and down when mounted on the 3-point on back of the tractor?

I am sure it is a simple issue to resolve <haha>, such as perhaps tilting it back a few degrees while on the ground, before lifting, so it is straight up and down once off the ground.

I have been hooking up the sprayer to the two lift arms first, then to the top link. Maybe I should hook up to the top link first, lift things up a bit, then hook up to the lift arms?

Wishing I could do this like a pro...

 

[Tirediron]

Adjust the top link to the amount of tip you want to eliminate when it is on the ground Ie if it tips back 10*, tip it forward 10* on the ground, only system designed equipment lifts level, so tilt as you lift is common with different manufacturers
If there are different height choices for the top link, try to get as close th the same vertical distance as the tractor lift arm pivots to the top link tractor end, this should give the straightest vertical lift

 

[Peanut]

Maybe pictures will help… The angle of the implement to ground level will change with the height of the lift. Just hook up your sprayer then adjust the top link for the position you desire the tank to be while operating the equipment.

Example one: I’d adjust the top link so the bush hog is level at the height I intend to run it. About 3” above the ground.

Example two: I’d want the front plows (green), level with the rear plows (yellow) at the height I intend to plow. The plow sweeps will be about 4” below ground level as I plow.

 

[Peanut]

The top link allows you to manipulate the angle of the implement to ground level, handy sometimes.. Again with this cultivator… the adjustable top link allows me to run the rear sweeps(y) higher or lower or level with the front sweeps(g). I might want the rear sweeps(y) deeper than the front sweeps(g) in some cases. Or barely scraping the surface of the ground in other cases so I'd adjust the top link so they higher than the front sweeps while plowing.

I will add… as is often the case when lifting a heavy farm implement… I have to adjust the top link just to get the implement hooked up. Once properly hooked up to the tractor I’ll then have to adjust the top link again for the way I want the implement to operate. I almost always have to adjust it twice.

Another little trick, don't try to adjust the toplink with the weight of the implement hanging on it. Use gravity and the ground to your advantage. By slightly lifting or lowering you can take the pressure off the top link so adjustments are easy.

 

[OldSchool]

With the sprayer on the ground - over adjust the drawbar making it longer so the sprayer heads point down. Then when you lift it - the spray goes where you want it.

A bit of trial and error is involved, but even the pros go through that.

It’s all basic and outlined in the previous posts. Once you got it, it’s second nature and makes perfect sense.

 

[EastenerWesterner]

2 different tractors can have 2 different type tilts My little old one will have a huge tilt towards it when lifted. My big one doesn’t have that huge a tilt.

Set it up for where you are going to use it. A sprayer example- set it up level to use the boom on the sprayer. You usually want to run that as close to the ground as possible to prevent overspray. Boxblade- to run at level, who cares if it’s tilted when up.

 

[Bacpacker]

Peanut gave perfect descriptions. Just a little trail and error will get it set exactly right

 

[OldSchool]

I haven’t used 3 point sprayers, but seems to me there would be a sweet spot at the desired level off the ground, and raising it slightly higher would provide a wider pattern, and lower a closer more defined pattern. I do know sprayers are tricky to get the desired coverage.

 

[mml373]

Thank you, everyone. Sounds like there's no perfect way/quick way and the trial-and-error method is appropriate. So I will continue the process and I guess will eventually get to the point where I can do things more quickly. 2nd time hitching up the sprayer was tonight...and it was done in about 1/4 the time it took to do it, the first time.

 

[Peanut]

Yep, have to figure out what works best for you. My preference is always to use the tractors power instead of muscle to make hooking up easier. Though I keep a 1 inch sq steel bar about 7ft long in the shed, makes a great pry bar for nudging a heavy implement when trying to hook up.

Another tip… for me, how I disconnect an implement and where I park it both play a big part in making it easy or difficult to hookup the next time I use it.

In this pic of our old gang disc… I took a shovel and removed about an inch of soil where the front disc’s set. This causes the top hitch point to be slightly forward of the lifting pins. Makes it easier to hook to the tractor in this case. Took a few years to figure this out. You’ll have to figure out what’s best for each piece of your equipment.

 

[Tirediron]

standard, 3 point hitches are a pain to hook up, I try to block my implements up, and if possible leave the top link with the implement, if you are switching much a quick hitch adapter is nice, especially if you make all the implements fit to your tractor hitch configuration.
It all takes time, 4 times everything goes smooth, the next 3 are a fight, a high lift jack and pry bars are your friend when hooking up.

 

[Bacpacker]

I use a 7' long fence post for pry bar. Always useful

 

[Peanut]

My royal pain is two tractors, one fits cat 1 pins, the other fits cat 2 pins. I have equipment, some with cat 1, others with cat 2. (cat 1- 7/8" dia, cat 2 - 1 1/8 dia).

I got sleeves so I can use the cat 2 tractor with all equipment. The old tractor can only use equip with cat 1 pins.

The sleeves keep disappearing!!!!! Especially when my nephew ran cattle up here. I must have bought a dozen sets of sleeves because he kept losing them. I even found a sleeve by the mailbox down at the highway once.

 

[Tirediron]

I saw a brilliant quick tach system on a group on facebook (I know fakebook sucks , but some grats stuff on the groups. ) Homemade attachments is the group, if there is interest I can attach a link when i have more time. he built a triangle shaped tractor end of 2X2 hss, and used 3" channel on the implement.

 

[OldSchool]

For connecting a 3 point hitch to an implant without a second person… bungee cords are your friends. Get the lower points close then use the pulling actions of the cords to make the hitch fall into place when you get the hight and depth on target. From there the drawbar is no problem.

 

[Tirediron]

the afore mentioned adapter (not my design but great idea)

 

[Tirediron]

hydraulic top links are really handy also

 

[EastenerWesterner]

Here is what troubles me about that design. You might need a longer PTO shaft. That looks to add 6 inches

When I put on a quik hitch, I added 3 inches. My PTO shaft could barely accommodate it, but the guard could not. Ended up buying a new guard.

I love the quik hitch. No more struggles, especially with a BH. But when I put bushings on all the dragging equipment and then got tractor #2, I needed another quik hitch. Fortunately HF has them reasonable and problem free for the past 3 years.