This is a new one for me.
Ask most foragers what mugolio is and they’ll tell you it’s a syrup made by infusing unripe pine cones in sugar. But a quick google search brings up a New York Times article from 2011 that says it originated in the Italian alps and is made from the buds of the mugo pine.
Confused? So was I. After finding an online vendor who also describes it as being made from “pine cone buds,” I’ve decided to attribute the confusion to the language barrier. The syrup is sold by an Italian company and my best guess is that they meant immature pine cones (pine cones at the bud stage?). I’m also guessing the author of the article was a food writer, not a forager, someone who didn’t realize that the term “pine cone buds” is pretty confusing in English.
Originally made from Pinus mugo, you can use any immature pine cone, as well as the cones of several other conifers (fir, spruce, hemlock). Smaller cones seem to deliver more flavor, although I’ve also used larger cones and cut them up to expose more surface area for the infusion. The important thing is that the cones be green. A woody brown cone will not make a delicious syrup.
The recipe is ridiculously simple and almost foolproof. And the syrup is so delicious that once you taste it, you’ll find yourself gathering pine cone buds every spring.