Features (operating skills) of "MAXIMUM" MPG in an ATV.

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Sourdough

"Eleutheromaniac"
HCL Supporter
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Joined
Mar 17, 2018
Messages
7,417
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In a cabin, on a mountain, in "Wilderness" Alaska.
Please don't GUESS. I can GUESS, Flawed guess could "conceivably" be fatal.

Clearly 2WD will get better milage then 4WD. What other conditions would maximize MPG..?? Is there a sweet spot in the MPH..?? Would creeping along at 20 MPH render better MPG then 45 MPH..??

"Might" be compelled to cover long distance on a large & heavy ATV, with only finite amount of fuel. I suspect the machine will do 70+ MPH. But is there a sweet spot in the speed that greatly enhances MPG.
 
In my experience (having owned over a dozen ATV's of various sizes), your best mileage is achieved more by RPM than by speed and unless you have a tach, you have to go by ear. Be in whatever gear you need to get through the terrain but keep your engine RPM's just high enough where there is no engine bogging. Somewhere between 1800-2400 RPM's seems to be the sweet spot for my machines (Honda, Suzuki & Kaw).

If your machine is both auto and manual (normally push button manual), being in the manual setting lets you control the engine better. The auto's run a bit higher RPM's.

I don't check MPG's regularly but where I live (very hilly), I'd guess I only get around 10 MPG's.

For carrying extra fuel, I found this flat style of spare tank the best as you can just load on top of it.
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best mileage is achieved more by RPM than by speed and unless you have a tach, you have to go by ear.
Machine has a digital Tachometer. And Thank You.
 
I'm not going to ask what you're driving but if it has a digital tach, I'm guessing it has other things like a trip odometer.
If it does, have you tried:
Fill the tank
Drive 10-20 miles at something like 2400 RPM's (average).
Re-fill the tank and see how much fuel it used.

Repeat at 2000 RPM's and check your results.

I was just out mowing and thinking (but moot now since you already have the machine) that my diesel side-by-side can go a lot further distance than my ATV.
It doesn't seem to matter what RPM's I run the diesel at but I constantly get over 2 hours of run time per gallon. I think it has an 8-gallon tank which means 16 hours run time. Yea, it's slow but at even 12-13 MPH, I can go nearly 200 miles. My day-to-day ATV (a Honda 400) may go 50 miles.
 
I'm not going to ask what you're driving but if it has a digital tach, I'm guessing it has other things like a trip odometer.
If it does, have you tried:
Fill the tank
Drive 10-20 miles at something like 2400 RPM's (average).
Re-fill the tank and see how much fuel it used.

It is a CanAm 800 and only has 72 miles on it in 18 months. I never cared about the MPG till this week.
 
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and don't get sucked into the high octane gas fantasy, yes it will maybe allow it to make more, wide open throttle power, but lower octane burns faster and results in better MPG at part and light load
 
an other trick that greatly helps milage, if it is safe to do so , let the downhill momentum help up the other side.
 
This thread is about making it to a specific location for (SHTF) survival should that be necessary.
 
To me performance is much more important than MPG. Plus I'd never own a 2 wd vehicle.
So, you would intentionally purchase an ATV THAT WAS ONLY 4WD (2 wd not an option) only 4WD exclusively. I am not sure they ever made that.
 
Yep, and in my area an under powered 2 wd wouldn't make it very far.
where did an underpowered 2 wd come from , 800 cc can ams are well powered, I seriously doubt you can get one thats not a 4x4 .
 
So, you would intentionally purchase an ATV THAT WAS ONLY 4WD (2 wd not an option) only 4WD exclusively. I am not sure they ever made that.
They used to make 2 wd only ATV's, not sure if they still do or not. My ATV's all have a 2 wd and 4 wd switch. Since I'm in 4 wd 95% of the time the 2wd option is next to worthless for me. During winter everything is only in 4wd around here.
 
where did an underpowered 2 wd come from , 800 cc can ams are well powered, I seriously doubt you can get one thats not a 4x4 .
I think you misread some of my posts.
 
where did an underpowered 2 wd come from , 800 cc can ams are well powered, I seriously doubt you can get one thats not a 4x4 .
I know that at least Honda used to make 2 wd only ATV's. That may not be the case now days. I have a CanAm 1000, at times that seems a little under powered for my use.
 
Since I'm in 4 wd 95% of the time the 2wd option is next to worthless for me.
You do fully understand this thread is NOT a general what do members like, or feel they need.

It is about ONE thing ONLY. How to milk the MOST distance on a given amount of fuel, if the failure to cover that distance would likely be FATAL.
 
You do fully understand this thread is NOT a general what do members like, or feel they need.

It is about ONE thing ONLY. How to milk the MOST distance on a given amount of fuel, if the failure to cover that distance would likely be FATAL.
I understood it just fine. My point is that if an ATV won't make it to where you need to go then mpg is a moot point
 
I read years ago that typically an engine is most efficient when run at the rpm it makes peak torque. That is usually not very high in the revs but it depends on the intended design spec of the vehicle as a system of tires, gears, rpms and emissions.
 
I read years ago that typically an engine is most efficient when run at the rpm it makes peak torque. That is usually not very high in the revs but it depends on the intended design.
This CanAm 850 has a "V" Twin engine. V"-Twin engines generally make torque at low RPM's.
 
maybe some usefullness maybe not...all information i have slightly close to your needs,...so forgive me please...i use to have one of them very small geo tracker vehicles with the tiny 4 cylinder engine and 4x4 .I had to drive a long ways to work. If i drove it standard 55 or 65 it got mileage they described...mid 20's if i recall correctly...now..if i drove slow roads taking my time and doing 35-45 and enjoying the drive and scenery before getting to hell hole work site i got lots better mileage...and i do know what that was...37mpg...

side note..2 full time senior guides i knew in utah/wyoming used only the older atv in the 300cc or even 250cc like honda i think they were called 4track and foreman...anyway the one model everyone i seen was brown in color...he related to me guys hunting with him in 2005 guys having 700cc engines and they would empty tank out twice and be on third tank of fuel. they said thats why we buy all these old atvs we can find and the older smaller snowmobiles.

i have a suzuki quad runner 250 2wd and its super easy on fuel and they made it in 4x4 too.
 
As with any car or truck or vehicle your MPG's will be based on vehicle (occupant/total) weight and torque/horsepower, as well as your uphill and downhill averages.
To get a best for your answer you will need to do plenty of math. What works for others in their area/ terrain may not be best for you in your area.
Is it just you getting from point A to point B? Or will you be going to point A or point B with extra weight.
It will take practice and math calculations to determine what speed is best for you and your machine and your purpose for the terrain you have in your area.
I know from experience that my Polaris with a belt and centrifugal clutch gets much less MPG's than a comparable machine with a clutch and 5 speed manual transmission. But, I am in a mountainous area so the other machine can downshift going uphill and coast much better on the downhills. If I was on totally flat land the Polaris should/might do better as the clutch is designed to keep the engine in the optimum RPM range for the speed you are traveling.
The same is for a car or truck, especially newer models, where the computer uses the transmission and computer to allow engine braking to slow the vehicle down on the downhills. My older vehicles get much better mileage than the newer vehicles because I use my foot, and gas peddle, to control the uphill speed and then coast on the downhills..... assuming the newer vehicles are set at cruise control.
Even with my newer vehicles if I disengage the cruise control on the downhills the "know-it-all" computer claims I am getting over 200mpg's, but on the uphills in the mountains I am only getting about 10 or 12mpg's.

But, to answer your question, if you are on relatively flat land and occasionally carrying an extra load it is possible that a larger engine will get better mileage than a smaller engine because it does not have to work as hard with the extra weight. If it is just you traveling to and from without extra weight and on a flat ground a small engine moped may be a better option than a 300cc dirtbike or 4 wheeler.

I know, clear as mud. Sorry.
 
Now that I read more of the posts, I think most all of the manufacturers make both 2wd and 4wd options. Maybe your local dealers don't carry both, but I have been working as an OHV/ATV mechanic for the past 15 months and I have seen plenty of both. Maybe the 2wd option has a different model name than the 4wd model but for 4 wheelers there are usually both options. (just maybe not in all model names). Side By Sides or UTV's are usually all 4wd capable, but only if you select 2wd or 4wd. Even new 4 wheelers are available in 2wd options, depending on the model name, and many are capable of both 2wd or 4wd depending on what you select with the switch.

But, if you don't activate the 4wd option your front axles wont engage. Yes, the front driveshaft will be "powered" but the front differential will be unlocked and power will not be distributed to the front wheels.

Now, not to pick on sourdough for the Can Am choice, Can Am (Bombardier) are more difficult to work on because most every bolt has a nut on the back side where most every other brand has that nut welded to the frame or other body part. Is that a bad thing? No, unless you are working on them because it will be more effort, a bit of a pain in the back side, and will take longer. Also, the cooling system of the Can Am is lousy.... if you live in a desert area with high summer temps. The only thing in our experience at the shop I work at that is worse is a John Deere. Although I think the Yamaha Rhino 660 are 2nd in poor design only because more of them are sold than the John Deere. Rhino's may be good for the first couple years but we have had more of them in the shop over the last year than any other make or model just due to poor design. I know that when a Rhino comes into the shop there will be complaints about the fuel system. I know that when a John Deere comes into the shop getting parts will be about as difficult as remounting their wheels that have bolts instead of studs on the hubs that use lug nuts. Trying to align the wheels to the holes in the hubs while trying to start the bolts into the holes on the hubs is the worst part of my job.

Again, I defer back to my previous post that every ones situation will be different and depending on their use and terrain the opinions will vary like belly buttons. It is about impossible to determine what will be best for you in your area and for your use. Comparison? My huge mega cab Dodge Cummins 6.7 diesel 4x4 gets better mileage where I live than any of the other 5 vehicles in our family, including the small cars, simply because the constant up hills require the smaller engines to need more throttle but on the down hills we all can coast with our foot off the throttle. An 8000 pound truck gets better mileage than a 3000 pound car? Things that make you go Hmmmmm.
 
This CanAm 850 has a "V" Twin engine. V"-Twin engines generally make torque at low RPM's.
It might be worth seeing it there is a fuel consumption read out on the machines computer, fuel consumption is a combination of the engines fuel rate per horse power hour, and the drivetrains ability it keep it in the economy sweet spot, which is not peak torque in low load situations
 
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I don't know if the thread, that I linked was clear on their conversion, the distance, as I read it was 109 KM
(68 miles) the 800s used about 2.5 Us gallons, while the worst of the 1000s used 4 us gallons, and I think that thes guys were just riding, not so much riding for mileage. but it is a decent basis to go by
 
One other consideration is that my machine has very knobby mud tires. And my whole trip would be on blacktop highways.
 
One other consideration is that my machine has very knobby mud tires. And my whole trip would be on blacktop highways.
one option to consider is getting a n extra set of rims and mount car tires on them that would prolly also help with mileage, but you would want to be making a lot of miles for that to be worth while
 

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