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Frodo

Walk with God, You will never be lost
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My van is running rough/sluggish , So this is what I did
New plugs, wires
fuel filter, air filter, seafoam additive,
running better, But I still get a sluggish feeling off the line that smooths out at a higher speed . Seems like it is fuel related
could it be injectors and if so, how do I clean them?
 
But I still get a sluggish feeling off the line that smooths out at a higher speed . Seems like it is fuel related

Does it feel like you are pressing the pedal harder and not really moving? IOW, more pedal pressure to move.

If so, catalytic converter could be getting plugged up.

How many miles?
 
I work at O’Reilly, and used to work at Advance.
Both will check your codes for free.
Just remember - if one thing is out of spec, it may throw other codes too.
Start with the first code shown.
 
That's what I use, nothing wrong with Lucas products... and this 20-year-old Camry runs like a top. I actually have another small plastic bottle of Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant & Injector Cleaner, that's good stuff. Biggkidd, you are absolutely right, it's called "Tune-Up In A Bottle"---I'm looking at the label right now, lol. With an older vehicle like mine, I like preventive maintenance, and I swap out fluids & filters a little earlier as well. Not too early, if ya catch my drift, I want my money's worth from each product, but early enough to keep my car happy & healthy, lol. I believe I'll go dump this bottle in the tank, I usually do it before pumping fuel but it's okay to dump it in afterward, it'll eventually mix with the fuel. ;)

P.S. I use another Lucas additive in the transmission, just to keep my car running smoothly... 221K miles on the odometer and counting! With older vehicles, it only makes sense to take good care of them, they'll last much longer that way. :)
 
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Does it feel like you are pressing the pedal harder and not really moving? IOW, more pedal pressure to move.

If so, catalytic converter could be getting plugged up.

How many miles?
I never thought of the cat being plugged. Good call. I've had it happen twice, and both times it was more of a sputter than just being sluggish though.
 
I work at O’Reilly, and used to work at Advance.
Both will check your codes for free.
Just remember - if one thing is out of spec, it may throw other codes too.
Start with the first code shown.
Yes. It will point you in the right direction.
Just don't take their advice about the $80 non-returnable part that they are sure you need, as gospel.
Every fuel pump that I saw that had a 'problem', failed completely and the vehicle rolled to a dead stop.
Fuel filters/delivery affect WOT first, and the most.
Your problem may be one best solved by having the dealer hook it to 'the machine'
This is helpful if the problem is internal.
A limping cylinder does exactly as you describe, a problem at low speeds that goes away at higher speeds.
Since it is an inline-6, pointing a temperature gun at every exhaust port at idle will make it obvious. A compression test on just that one cylinder will confirm it. (said the laziest tech ever :rolleyes:)
 
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@Supervisor42 I had a '96 Bravada, 4.3 V6 that had the fuel pump go out. With it, I couldn't get it started when the motor was cold. After cranking for a minute it would run fine. After I figured it out with the help of one of our mechanics at work, I drove it 40 miles to a NTB shop. It ran like a champ all the way. That damn pump cost me $1100 by the time it was said and done. Genuine GM parts can kiss my...
 
Yes. It will point you in the right direction.
Just don't take their advice about the $80 non-returnable part that they are sure you need, as gospel.
Every fuel pump that I saw that had a 'problem', failed completely and the vehicle rolled to a dead stop.
Fuel filters/delivery affect WOT first, and the most.
Your problem may be one best solved by having the dealer hook it to 'the machine'
This is helpful if the problem is internal.
A limping cylinder does exactly as you describe, a problem at low speeds that goes away at higher speeds.
Since it is an inline-6, pointing a temperature gun at every exhaust port at idle will make it obvious. A compression test on just that one cylinder will confirm it. (said the laziest tech ever :rolleyes:)
Nope. O'Reilly simply tells the customers what trouble codes are shown, if any. We offer no advice, try to sell no parts, per company SOP.
Electric fuel pumps usually fail in one of two ways. Either they just outright quit, or they begin to lose fuel pressure over a period of time. In which case, the vehicle will still run at idle and low throttle pressure, but will not support high loads.
To check this is easy - disconnect the line at the fuel rail, put a gauge on it. Most injected engines need somewhere around 37 psi.
Most good repair shops today have scanners every bit as sophisticated as a dealer. However, every dealership I have had the misfortune to have contact with ARE the ones who will sell you a boatload of parts you don't need, since most dealership shops work off commission.
 
Buy a code reader, just cause the check engine light isn't on, doesn't mean that there aren't codes, and a clear codes done by the reader can erase confused ecm. dirty battery posts can cause all manner of running problems, and is so often overlooked, clean to bare metal. Compression tests are the most over sold over rated waste of time ever foisted on people, Exhaust manifold temp at the port is one of the best methods, cold or cooler indicates weak cylinder. this could be a spark plug, even if new, wire same, coil pack. electronic engines have eliminated the best trouble shooting tool, the cylinder balance test. A code reader and a temp gun are well worth the tiny investment.
 
My van is running rough/sluggish , So this is what I did
New plugs, wires
fuel filter, air filter, seafoam additive,
running better, But I still get a sluggish feeling off the line that smooths out at a higher speed . Seems like it is fuel related
could it be injectors and if so, how do I clean them?
What kind of fuel? Old?
 
The v6 that you have with these symptoms is well known for the EGR ports that are located under the intake manifold to get stopped up with hard carbon deposits. This causes an uneven distribution of exhaust gasses into the combustion chamber. Have to pull the intake and manually clean the ports on the heads. I have done many of them in the past.
 
I think O'Reilly's checks codes.
AutoZone check my codes for free & I buy the parts from them. 2005 Nissan pick up truck. so yes most will help you out.
The checker it self range from $30.00- $450.00
I would run two or three tanks of high Octane gas & Sea foam though it also.
One can of Sea foam or the brand you like, will not clean everything.
 
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I'm sticking to my guns, cheap stuff first!! If you ran one bottle of Seafoam then changed the filter, run more through it. We have yucky gas these days! On the bigger side, front wheel drive Ford trannys have been known for issues shifting out of first!! Have you checked the tranny fluid?
 
We have a 1998 Windstar and was having the engine go into default, bought a code reader from Harbor Freight, code kept coming up about misfires in a couple of cylinders, I used injector cleaners but still was having problems, those problems went away when I stopped using ethanol added fuel and I used clear fuel, the non ethanol fuel. We also gained 7 mpg by doing that, thing is Ford AOD transmission gave out on us, we had the trans worked on but it was never the same, too bad because the 3.8 V-6 is a great engine, amazing power and great gas mileage, anyway, instead of going through the tranny again, we decided to get a Toyota Sienna, a 2005 with 172,000 miles it's been an awesome vehicle, we're totally sold on Toyota's and ended up getting a 2007 Tundra to replace our 1998 F-250 SC 4X4 diesel when that engine went bad, the Tundra had 244,000 mile on it when we bought it, the Car Fax report said that it had been well taken care of and it runs like new, the 5.7 V-8 is powerful, it fulfills my Bucket List desire for a V-8 powered hot rod, not only that, I've hauled up to 3,300 pounds of garden soil, which it's handled without a whimper. I've read about two Tundra's reaching the million mile mark so I wasn't too concerned about the 244,000 miles. At our ages, I kind of think that these Toyota's will be the last vehicles we'll ever own. If I was a lot younger I might just pull the Windstar engine and drop it in my 1988 Suzuki Samurai, I also thought about dropping that 3.8 into a Cracker Box boat, however, those days probably won't come about.
 
I'm sticking to my guns, cheap stuff first!! If you ran one bottle of Seafoam then changed the filter, run more through it. We have yucky gas these come days! On the bigger side, front wheel drive Ford trannys have been known for issues shifting out of first!! Have you checked the tranny fluid?
That is not fun getting home with a tranny that won't upshift, been there and done that on the freeway, thankfully it upshifted to second gear, kicked it in neutral going down hill, we have three mountain passes to go over to get home from town and I couldn't stand to scream that still good engine to death.
 
So may glitches can be solve with a simple code reader, that would cost a fortune to fix. also keep in mind new doesn't always mean good, I E plugs and wires etc
 

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