MF12 Balers

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mml373

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I have 2 old Massey MF12 square balers, new to me. We got them running pretty well and I suspect the knotters will continue to improve after some more bales are through them. We used an old (borrowed) Massey 135 tractor to bale over the weekend, but I was wondering if it would be OK to put these on a newer higher-horsepower tractor. We may end up owning the old Massey (waiting for current owner to make some repairs), which has 38 PTO horsepower, but the main utility tractor I use has slightly more than 100 PTO horsepower and may have to do in a pinch unless it would destroy these old balers. Appreciate any input.

Nice, beautiful bales from these old machines!!
 
If you do use the big one, I'd bale slowly.
Yes, indeed. The baler manual recommends plunger operation at (if memory serves) 80 strokes per minute but I don't see forward ground speed given (leaves it open to operator's discretion based upon crop density/ground conditions, but the Massey 135 was kept pretty slow and there's no reason to hurry. Going too slow can result in misshapen bales.
 
I have 2 old Massey MF12 square balers, new to me. We got them running pretty well and I suspect the knotters will continue to improve after some more bales are through them. We used an old (borrowed) Massey 135 tractor to bale over the weekend, but I was wondering if it would be OK to put these on a newer higher-horsepower tractor. We may end up owning the old Massey (waiting for current owner to make some repairs), which has 38 PTO horsepower, but the main utility tractor I use has slightly more than 100 PTO horsepower and may have to do in a pinch unless it would destroy these old balers. Appreciate any input.

Nice, beautiful bales from these old machines!!
It shouldn't have any impact on the old bailers. Just watch your speed and your PTO RPM's.
 
From what I gather: If you’re running a Massey… be careful that you don’t exploded the equipment you’re using.

Edit… the Massey you’re looking at is underpowered compared to the other. All I know is how to run with what I’m using,… making compromises as necessary.
 
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From what I gather: If you’re running a Massey… be careful that you don’t exploded the equipment you’re using.

Edit… the Massey you’re looking at is underpowered compared to the other. All I know is how to run with what I’m using,… making compromises as necessary.
Biggest thing on that small Massey tractor is to keep the plunger speed at the recommended rate and engine RPMS up a little on hills. Everything's pretty flat but some hills can bog things down pretty easily if the tractor's not getting enough throttle.

My larger tractor wouldn't even break a sweat. The open station Massey is fun and easier to deal with, when baling.
 
I've run old square balers (NH and JD) with anything from a Ford 8N to a JD 4440. All performed just fine. My opinion - and it's only an opinion - is that 70 to 100 HP is just about right for a square baler. Currently on my family's farm, what little baling we do is done with a JD 327 baler behind an Oliver 1650 tractor. It's a good match...
 
I've run old square balers (NH and JD) with anything from a Ford 8N to a JD 4440. All performed just fine. My opinion - and it's only an opinion - is that 70 to 100 HP is just about right for a square baler. Currently on my family's farm, what little baling we do is done with a JD 327 baler behind an Oliver 1650 tractor. It's a good match...
Seemed to me the baler sung along better with a little more engine RPM on the little tractor. Not a lot, just a little. It was quite fun to do squares for the first time.
 
Seemed to me the baler sung along better with a little more engine RPM on the little tractor. Not a lot, just a little. It was quite fun to do squares for the first time.
I had a lot of experience with a MF12 baler when I was young...
My dad loved to buy bargain equipment that 'nobody could fix' and turn me loose on it.
I became a baler knotter 'wizard' :D.
The knife that cuts the twine is critical. Keep an eye on it.
It's edge, position, and timing must all be perfect to prevent 'baler diarrhea'.
Bad = too dull, too high, too low, too soon, or too late.
I learned to trip the knotter and have my brother turn the flywheel by hand so I could watch it work in slow motion.
Don't forget about the string tension either.:rolleyes:
The rest of the baler, no problem:).
 
Looks like I am about a month late on this. A bigger tractor is usually a little nicer on an old square baler, they have a more even torque and smoother governor response. there are no hard rules as to pto speed, fast/ heavy enough feed to keep the bales nice and uniform, but not fast enough to plug or break the shear pin. (mechanical fuse) there is a rule, use the correct shear pin, don't let someone talk you into a harder/ stronger bolt. that wrecks things. and bear in mind that even under ideal conditions a shear pin will break from fatigue, when we we doing a crap load of squares, new shear pins every monday service.
 
Looks like I am about a month late on this. A bigger tractor is usually a little nicer on an old square baler, they have a more even torque and smoother governor response. there are no hard rules as to pto speed, fast/ heavy enough feed to keep the bales nice and uniform, but not fast enough to plug or break the shear pin. (mechanical fuse) there is a rule, use the correct shear pin, don't let someone talk you into a harder/ stronger bolt. that wrecks things. and bear in mind that even under ideal conditions a shear pin will break from fatigue, when we we doing a crap load of squares, new shear pins every monday service.
Yes on the shear pins, and keep a handful in the tool box because when the hay gets thick and heavy you might break 2 or 3 in a day, especially when baling good alfalfa. Brome grass hay doesn't seem to be quite as heavy even in a 3 swath windrow...
 

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