Picked up some more conibear traps (3) 220 and (6) 110 I generally keep at least one 110 trap in the B.O.B.
Picked up some more traps
- Thread starter Maverick
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Snares are also light and easy to set up. I conibear trap in the fall and winter for coons & fisher. Make a few hundred $$ yearly.
Snares are great I have some thompson 1/16 and 1/32 snares and a few homemade in my box, snares should be a given for the B.O.B. no weight and takes up no room!
Would you both considering parting some basics of trapping to us novices...when you have time...I've got some PDF's, but they sure are not the same, when it comes to people who have experience...possibly a do's and don'ts list. Thanks before hand if you do...
its really difficult to explain in particularly with the conibear's, it would almost be better to be with someone because nothing beats hands on when dealing with traps, I build a tunnel using surrounding vegetation and tree limbs with no exit forcing one way in with planted food at the end, I successfully used peanut butter as bait for possums (110) and porcupines our porcupines are 40-45lbs so I use the 220, snares are the easiest to use and the safest, an old boy scouts book has a good snare instruction, it's a matter of recognizing the paths small game uses (not deer trails) and patients, I would generally set up 3 snares and check them once a day (in mid day at a slight distance using field glasses) If nothing in 3 days I move only 1 snare not all 3 (when I am out for a week or more)
A word of warning, the conibear's are good traps the #110 should be the first trap NOT the 220/330 traps, the 220 will hurt might break something the 330 WILL hurt and WILL break something, the 110 will get you to say a few bad words and you start over the 220 and 330 it's game over, if your in a survival situation and you get bit by the 330 you are in trouble!! Not sure what to really add to it can't really give instructions without pictures but then pictures don't tell the whole story (video would be better)
A word of warning, the conibear's are good traps the #110 should be the first trap NOT the 220/330 traps, the 220 will hurt might break something the 330 WILL hurt and WILL break something, the 110 will get you to say a few bad words and you start over the 220 and 330 it's game over, if your in a survival situation and you get bit by the 330 you are in trouble!! Not sure what to really add to it can't really give instructions without pictures but then pictures don't tell the whole story (video would be better)
Thanks for the insight. Yes, I think I might have to seek out someone who traps. My aunt did some trapping up in the Andirondacks, but I hardly get up to my dad's old stomping grounds during trapping season. I'm not even sure, if she still does it.
what is thought of using steel traps???? is this a sensible idea or is it thought that they are to heavy
'sensible'
The 110 are not that heavy, easy to set, traps will out last the bullets I carry, traps won't give away my location, traps conserve my bullets for defensive purposes, traps give me time to do other chores, traps are very sensible if you know how to use them. If I am getting out of dodge never returning my traps are going. Traps and Snares are a tool to become familiar with, learn and practice.
I use steel traps and snares . Havn't trapped sierous in several years . I set enough each winter to stay in practice and keep the preditors out of my chickens . I plan a bigger trap line this winter preditors are on the increase and there is no quale and few wild rabbits to speak of .
snares work best for me when i place them in a woven wire fence find were the animals go under and the wire is raised up from their traffic look for slides were there is no grass weave a third of your snare through the fence towards the top and leave your snare loop hanging on the trail in a day or two you will definitely have something that's my take on snares and i acquired mine by finding an abandoned trap line in the spring alongside the interstate another good place to trap it was the most horrid thing ive ever seen there was a baby bob cat in one snare and at least 6 opossum and 8 or 10 coons and they had been there so long decay had started CHECK your traps never know who will find them
thanks for the invite my friendJontte, you can always come here
I would definately learn alot of trapping and snareing...of that I'm sure of
had to check out how regulated it is here in Finland about hunting with snares, it's so regulated that it's forbidden, there are alot of old manuals about it,with pics and all, but in shtf situation,who would come and ask you about permits anyway
first snare is a commercial snare that i confiscated from an abandoned trap line second snare is a snare that was made by a trapper who left his trap line so long the animals began to decompose so i got a few of them to it was made with 2 nuts a washer and a piece of tie wire twisted into a custom swivel the hand made snare is light ga. steel cable and 5lb coons tend to twist em so bad you only get one use i know a state trapper that used the commercial snares and he was able to use them multiple times even if he caught a large coyote with that said the hand made snare could have been made with heavier cable to keep it from twisting up so bad ill post pics of snares small coons destroyed if this information will be helpful 
