Plumbing help, Hubby is scared to screw up.....

[Pearl]

I didn't want to join the plumbing forum over one project, I'll see what y'all tell me first!! Of course some of y'all are on there! So I have a leaky outside sillcock ! It's welded to the copper pipe and doesn't have much play room.... unless I take out some brick, not wanting to do that! I'm posting pictures, do y'all think there is room for one of those push to connect spigots if I cut the pipe right behind the old one?? I am on a slab, so there's no cutting pipe back any further and installing a long frost free sillcock!

 

[Tirediron]

are you doing it because of the drip ? first I would take the valve apart to see if the seal can be replaced

 

[Neb]

are you doing it because of the drip ? first I would take the valve apart to see if the seal can be replaced

What he said!

The press to fit need clean pipe.

If he decides to try and unsolder make sure the valve is open and drained. I made that mistake once and the cap nearly hit me in the face when the water vaporized!

Ben

 

[SoJer]

..first I would take the valve apart to see if the seal can be replaced

Yep, seconded.. Shut the water off (whatever Feed this line) and you - should - be able to take that shut-off apart / replace the 'packing' / O-ring / bushing / however it's designed to keep that sealed when the shut-off is "Off"...

jd

 

[randyt]

Check the bib washer but a new valve and sharkbite is pretty simple too

 

[Pearl]

Did the pack washer a few years ago! It's a run now, not a drip! Thinking about just putting a cut off extension on it! And Neb, not "him", me!! I was checking out the Sharkbite push to connects, didn't know if my pipe would be too short?!

 

[randyt]

Probably needs the seat recut and polished

 

[Pearl]

Probably needs the seat recut and polished

Wouldn't it be easier to replace the spigot?? Maybe not!! It's original...from 1978!! Eeeek!!

 

[old tex]

I'll just point out something that I've learned over the years as someone who is NOT handy around the house. If you don't know what your doing (I generally didn't) it usually costs more to call someone AFTER you have worked on something & screwed it up (more than it was in the first place).

 

[Pearl]

I'll just point out something that I've learned over the years as someone who is NOT handy around the house. If you don't know what your doing (I generally didn't) it usually costs more to call someone AFTER you have worked on something & screwed it up (more than it was in the first place).

I WILL FIX IT!! One way or another! I'm sure I'll chip away the concrete around the spigot, cut the pipe, do a push to connect new one! I would like to do that WITHOUT taking out concrete or brick!

 

[old tex]

I WILL FIX IT!! One way or another! I'm sure I'll chip away the concrete around the spigot, cut the pipe, do a push to connect new one! I would like to do that WITHOUT taking out concrete or brick!

Now Pearl, I'm sure someone said something very much like that down in the guts of the Titanic. Just saying....(wink).

 

[Pearl]

Now Pearl, I'm sure someone said something very much like that down in the guts of the Titanic. Just saying....(wink).

If I was on the Titanic it would still be floatin' around out there today!! Just saying

 

[Caribou]

What kind of pipe is that feeding the faucet? Does the pipe come out above the floor/can it be accessed from the inside?

If that is copper pipe, and the pipe is buried in concrete, you could have a major problem as the copper might be corroded from the acid in the concrete. One option is to abandon the line in place and to run a Pex line above the floor and either hide it in the wall or build a shadow box around it.

 

[randyt]

Wouldn't it be easier to replace the spigot?? Maybe not!! It's original...from 1978!! Eeeek!!

It would be

 

[randyt]

It looks high enough it shouldn't be at floor level. Where it comes into the house, what is behind it? Many times we come out a perpendicular wall or from the vanity or kitchen sink plumbing

 

[Pearl]

What kind of pipe is that feeding the faucet? Does the pipe come out above the floor/can it be accessed from the inside?

If that is copper pipe, and the pipe is buried in concrete, you could have a major problem as the copper might be corroded from the acid in the concrete. One option is to abandon the line in place and to run a Pex line above the floor and either hide it in the wall or build a shadow box around it.

It's not touching the concrete, just floating ! It is not accessible from inside! Well maybe if I cut the sheetrock from the utility room! I was hoping for a fast or easy fix! I'll not pay a plumber and have to mess with sheetrock and and other fun,

 

[randyt]

You can get a 10.dollar access panel from hardware cut a small hole in sheet rock to see what's going on.

 

[Pearl]

It looks high enough it shouldn't be at floor level. Where it comes into the house, what is behind it? Many times we come out a perpendicular wall or from the vanity or kitchen sink plumbing

Utility room, a wall adjacent to the washer. It must enter and make a couple of 90's! Maybe I do need to take out some sheetrock!?!

 

[randyt]

Most of those access panels are 12 by 12 inches

 

[Pearl]

You can get a 10.dollar access panel from hardware cut a small hole in sheet rock to see what's going on.

I think I'll start there! THANK YOU, I thought about that, needed a push!

 

[Pearl]

Most of those access panels are 12 by 12 inches

Or I can make one!

 

[randyt]

Cut a small hole and perk around with a flashlight. If you see it center access panel on it and open up for working room

 

[randyt]

Or I can make one!

Sometimes we put a flat face return aire grill over a hole for access

 

[Pearl]

Sometimes we put a flat face return aire grill over a hole for access

Great idea!!

 

[Pearl]

Bottom line, if I cut the pipe from the inside I can possibly do a 4" push on frost free spigot!! I feel like there is hope!!

 

[Caribou]

It would be

Jobs like this can be real easy, or not. You need to be prepared to do a hard job. If the facet comes off clean, everything is golden. If the line breaks, or is kinked, or chunk of corrosion pops loose, or, or, or…. the job can become major. I’ve had horror shows done in an hour and “easy” jobs take a week, you never know.

I’d use a solid cover panel rather than something that will allow a cold wind and bugs to get unto the house.

 

[randyt]

Jobs like this can be real easy, or not. You need to be prepared to do a hard job. If the facet comes off clean, everything is golden. If the line breaks, or is kinked, or chunk of corrosion pops loose, or, or, or…. the job can become major. I’ve had horror shows done in an hour and “easy” jobs take a week, you never know.

I’d use a solid cover panel rather than something that will allow a cold wind and bugs to get unto the house.

I would have it done before the coffee was made...lol. I've been plumbing for so long I have not run into problems for years
I too would opt for a solid panel, they are readily available

 

[INresponse]

I suspect the spigot is soldered on to a copper pipe. You can use a MAP torch (like propane but hotter) and heat the spigot and the solder will melt and you can remove the spigot. Use heavy gloves and a heavy rag to grab the spigot because it will be hot. Of course, turn the water off first, open the spigot to drain as much water as possible, and have the repair parts ready to go. Once the spigot is removed you use a small bit of sandpaper to clean the copper pipe, you will know it is clean when it is shiney everywhere, but at least a couple inches back so the new spigot will have a clean surface to grab on to. Fine sandpaper, maybe 220 grit at most.
The press on fittings are pretty good but studying a few simple YouTube videos will be enough for a good DIYer to solder on a new fitting. It isn't difficult, you just need to get all the water out of the line, a shop vac or compressed air can help with that, and follow that up with some towels to get as mush water out of the inside of the pipe as possible. Your local hardware store should have everything you need including the torch and solder and flux.

 

[Supervisor42]

Bottom line, if I cut the pipe from the inside I can possibly do a 4" push on frost free spigot!! I feel like there is hope!!

"Frost free" spigots rule!

We had those in Bama.
The water and valve part is inside.
If you don't leave a hose connected when it freezes, you can freeze it all you want... Nothing happens.

 

[Haertig]

Do you USE that spigot? If not, can you simply put a screw cap on the spigot output to close it off?

If you still want to use the spigot, you could just screw on a shut-off valve:

These might make good temporary fixes. That could morph into "permanent" fixes if need be.