Stair lighting and structure upgrade

[Peanut]

Well, it’s raining outside so the stair upgrade has begun. This is the old canning room, shelves built around two walls. Now it’s just storage, the catch-all room. The 4ft florescent light is toast (top left, 1st pic). It only works via a switch at the entrance. Gonna replace it with a 4ft Led shop light. The stairs (3rd pic) have a small light, high on the right wall with a switch at the top of the stairs. The house is a duplex and wired separately, upper and lower floors.

I’m gonna wire the shop light and stair light onto one circuit along with both switches. The switches will be upgraded to 3-ways so either switch will turn on/off both lights.

Have to replace the landing on the stairs first. It’s 50yr old, half inch particle board. I’ll use half inch plywood. The landing supports need upgraded too. I’ve got a 2x4 in the shop I’m going to sacrifice for that purpose.

Today began with moving junk… took an hour just to clear out a work area. Ran power cords and positioned a couple of drop lights so I’m not working in the dark.

Funny, realized as I worked this morning that I laid the the block for these support columns. I was 13yrs old, supervised of course, I'd forgotten all about it.

 

[Peanut]

I got the old particle board off the landing. I had 2 joists that were too short, pulled both of those out.

Next problem, both risers on the back wall were cut off at the bottom to allow for a sump pump pvc drain pipe that dad added years later. Neither riser goes to the floor to support the landing. They’re just nailed to the cinderblock wall. However, the front of the landing is supported to from floor.

I’m going to lowes for 2, 2x8’s. They have kiln dried 2x8x8’s for $8. Also have 2x8x16’s pressure treated for $20. If their saw guy is there I'll get the pressure treated and have it cut in half. If not the kiln dried will have to do.

I need two pieces 39” long to sister to the front of the back wall supports. This will support that side of the landing and negates moving the drain pipe. I also need two pieces 35” long to act as joists for the landing surface.

 

[Peanut]

Went to town and bought a 2x8 and a 2x10, 8ft long, they were next to each other on the rack. Got some nails and a few joist hangers also. Calling it a day.

 

[Peanut]

Okay, now all 4 corners of the landing are supported from the floor with 2x10's. As well as the stringers.

Now I'm ready to hang two joists across the top (red lines in bottom pic). I bought a 2x8 last night, don't know why. That's over kill by a long shot. (I tend to over build)

I'm putting a solid piece of 1/2 inch plywood down on top. I'm thinking 2x4's should be enough to prevent any sag. Thoughts? or should I go with 2x6's?

 

[Neb]

Okay, now all 4 corners of the landing are supported from the floor with 2x10's. As well as the stringers.

Now I ready to hang two joists across the top (red lines in bottom pic). I bought a 2x8 last night, don't know why. That's over kill by a long shot. (I tend to over build)

I'm putting a solid piece of 1/2 inch plywood down on top. I'm thinking 2x4's should be enough to prevent any sag. Thoughts? or should I go with 2x6's?

View attachment 167834View attachment 167835

Do you ever expect any extreme weight on the landing?

I would go with 2x6

Ben

 

[Haertig]

I'm not a carpenter or builder. But I've never seen flooring supported with 2x4's. I'd go for larger. And 1/2" plywood for the deck? I'd go with 3/4".

You don't have to be an engineer to build something. You only have to be an engineer if you want to build it just barely strong enough.

 

[Peanut]

It's not going to carry any more weight than an old man with a basket of laundry. There's a 90 turn at the landing and another 90 at the top. It was not designed for moving heavy objects. Big objects upstairs go in or out the back door. Downstairs they go out the front onto the porch.

But I'm thinking a 2x6 is the way to go. Just have to make another trip to town.

 

[Peanut]

Had to go to the big town for a 2x6 and hangers… and a couple more errands. Sort of a wasted day but I did cut and hang one joist after I got home. I’d never used hangers before. Not complicated but a pain to use in this tight space. Getting in a position where I could swing a hammer wasn't easy. Still better than not using them.

I used 12d nails, not a problem on the left side. But on the right side I cut the nails in half with bolt cutters then sharpened them. No choice nailing against a cinder block wall. Got 4 short nails in the hanger and 3 long ones as toenails. Its solid, good to go! Repeat tomorrow for the other short joist...

 

[Weedygarden]

I have nothing to add relative to the rebuild, but more about stairs and safety.

When I was teaching for Denver Public Schools, we would get a one page printout every month with safety tips. One monthly tip was to hold the railing when using stairs. That would be kind of hard to do with a laundry basket in your hands, or when carrying things. Because of my fall on stairs when I was a young adult, I am very careful about stairs.

I looked and see that you do have a railing to hold onto. I think that I am seeing a 90 degree turn in the stairs. I think that many basement stairs have that.

I'm house sitting and also am feeding a cat at another house close to the house sitting job. I have had to go into the garages in both of these houses, to dispose of trash. Both have a two step rise and both made me feel so uncomfortable. Not far to fall, but they both felt a little unsafe. No railing, and the steps are a little slippery. Both of these homes are less than 10 years old.

It is too easy to fall.

 

[Peanut]

@Weedygarden first pic... The upper section has rails on each side. From the landing down, only one side has a rail. Also...

@Haertig pointed out that 3/4 inch plywood would be a stronger surface for the landing. Yes, but it would cause a trip hazard.

Bottom pic you can see the paint line of the old 1/2inch particle board surface. The first step of the lower section was built to match that 1/2" surface. Putting in 3/4inch plywood surface would put a 1/4" 'bump' where the landing and that first step meet.

Not so much a problem going down but definitely an issue when going up the stairs. Especially for the 90yr old man who'll be using these stairs. That's why I'm putting in a half inch thick surface. So the first step of the lower section will be perfectly smooth and match the landing.

Besides, you could park a car on this landing supported with 2x10's. I think a 1/2" plywood will be fine.

 

[Haertig]

Putting in 3/4inch plywood surface would put a 1/4" 'bump' where the landing and that first step meet.

No, you wouldn't want a bump there. 1/2" should be perfectly fine for supporting people. I was thinking thicker for supporting things that may be traveling to/from the basement - like heavy gun safes, water heaters full of old sediment, etc.

A second handrail, if you can attach it securely to the outside stringer and/or that cinder block corner pillar, might be of help to the 90yr old as well. Continuous handrails on both sides for the entire staircase and landing would be ideal. Make sure everything is well lit too. I hope I will still be able to climb stairs when I'm 90!