Tips of all kinds!

[zoomzoom]

Oh, yea, the Evapo-rust color will change but in my experience, it's still effective for at least 2-3 more uses. I don't filter. I just keep adding things. You'll know when it's done.

 

[Neb]

Paint... not always for me. Actually, almost never. Keep reading.

For the moving parts, I really recommend giving it a light spray with Fluid Film.
https://www.fluid-film.com/

BTW - if you like EvapoRust for this project, you'll LOVE Fluid Film for rust prevention, lubricant... I haven't touched my WD-40, PB Blaster or similar in over a decade since using this stuff. Tools, hinges, gun oil, vehicle undercoating... you name it. Fluid Film will take care of it.

For handles, look at PlastiDip.
It's a rubberized product similar to what your pliers and other tools have on their handles.
https://plastidip.com/product/plastidip/
I buy the "DipCan" version. Basically, you dip your handles into the can and they come out rubberized.
It's been awhile but IIRC, once the can is opened, it has a limited life before hardening in the can. Line up your projects to use it up before it dries. It's been a long time but I'd guess you have a month or two before the open can starts to go bad.

And let the pastidip cure fully before a second coat.

Ben

 

[zoomzoom]

And let the pastidip cure fully before a second coat.

Ben

Oh yea. Forgot to mention that. Grab them too soon and you'll look like Edward Scissorhands.

 

[Peanut]

Paint... not always for me. Actually, almost never. Keep reading.

For the moving parts, I really recommend giving it a light spray with Fluid Film.
https://www.fluid-film.com/

For handles, look at PlastiDip.
It's a rubberized product similar to what your pliers and other tools have on their handles.
https://plastidip.com/product/plastidip/

I'll look into fluid film, thanks, been looking at such products.

I like plastidip.. .. but not for everything. The dip is much better than the spray. In fact I don't recommend the spray at all.

Also, the dip doesn't stand up well on high use tools, imho. So I like primer as a base on those before a dip.

 

[Neb]

I'll look into fluid film, thanks, been looking at such products.

I like plastidip.. .. but not for everything. The dip is much better than the spray. In fact I don't recommend the spray at all.

Also, the dip doesn't stand up well on high use tools, imho. So I like primer as a base on those before a dip.

View attachment 173673

Plastidip can be used to repair plastic seats like on lawnmowers. A little fabric backing then paint on the plastidip.

Ben

 

[Mad Dog 1]

Consider using old denim material to filter , will take a long time , in fact any material , not sure if the material will dissolve [ as i do not know that product here in south Africa ] , I have some 5 micron poly material that I wrap around the air filter of my cruiser as first line against dust, i use the material to filter our product : rust cure liquid : , this removes the shiny surface [ chrome ? ] off the tools , did a vernier gauge that was showing rust

 

[Magus]

About vinegar and rust… @Neb had a great idea. First I tried setting this old metal socket case in a pan with vinegar. It was easy to slosh or spill the liquid and it evaporated fairly quickly.

Neb suggested using a rag. It helps greatly, evaporation slowed and I don’t have to worry about spilling the vinegar. This old wash cloth holds the liquid against the metal and prevents sloshing.

Here I'm using an old baking pan for this job... taking surface rust off this old socket case that belonged to my dad. I'll post an update in a few days...

View attachment 173481View attachment 173482

No evaporation, no smell.
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/i...RMZbG-khlAIdOIB3QXX-izGwFQPQNuihoCzU8QAvD_BwE
The dollar store has cheaper ones.

 

[Peanut]

I found a grungy old n-95 mask in the tool room. I used it as a filter..

 

[Michele My Belle]

This is pretty amazing with the appliance dolly....

 

[Neb]

This is pretty amazing with the appliance dolly....

The tip for that video is...

Do NOT try this at home.

Ben

 

[Mountain trapper]

Here's something that I find helpful. Whenever I change oil in a vehicle or any equipment, I had a hard time seeing the oil on the dip stick. It was too clear. So I went to our local fuel and oil distributor and asked for some of the red dye, like what they add to off road diesel. Now I add a couple drops of the dye every time I change oil. Now it stands out on the dip stick. I put some in my tractor hydraulic tank too. It's easy to see the level in the sight glass.

 

[Pearl]

Here's something that I find helpful. Whenever I change oil in a vehicle or any equipment, I had a hard time seeing the oil on the dip stick. It was too clear. So I went to our local fuel and oil distributor and asked for some of the red dye, like what they add to off road diesel. Now I add a couple drops of the dye every time I change oil. Now it stands out on the dip stick. I put some in my tractor hydraulic tank too. It's easy to see the level in the sight glass.

That's a lot better than Hubby waiting for me to look at it!

 

[Magus]

1 12 Vt. light socket.
1 12 Vt light or LED equivalent.
2 Gator clips.

Snap it to your battery when you're under the hood for an instant trouble light, if you're extra fancy, wire a switch to it and clamp the skinned wire leads under the battery clamps and just leave it there rolled up out of the way until you need it.

I thought about making a few and selling them at the flea market.
Gods I miss radio shack!

 

[zoomzoom]

Plumbing tips.

Look under your sinks (normally kitchen) to see if you have 1 or more "air admittance valves". They're a plug looking thing on the tops of the pipes. I just had one fail and drop its diaphragm down the pipe which clogged it. They're only good for about 10 years. If you have them and they've been there a long time, consider replacing. They're $10-20 and only take a couple minutes to install.

Since mine failed, it created a pretty big clog in the pipe when it met residual crud (not the trap, but the pipe several feet away from the sink itself).

My snake couldn't make the 90° bend to get to the clog. Looking around the shop, what do I have that could simulate a snake.
A cable tool grabber may do it (if it's long enough).
A piece of garden hose with the end cut off.
Hmmm - The winner - A piece of coax cable. flexible enough to make the corners, rigid enough to be able to push against and release the clog. Yea!

Have a bathroom sink or tub with a clogged or slow drain? Use a long zip tie. It fits between the cross pieces at the plug area and can reach down to the trap.

 

[zoomzoom]

BTW - If the air admittance valve fails from the diaphragm falling out:

If you get a sewer smell coming from under the sink, it's most likely the valve failure.

If you get a clog in your pipe (not the trap) and the assembly has failed, the overflow will most likely come out of that valve assembly and not back up the water into the sink. You'll know when you think all is fine but then water starts coming out of the cabinet and gets your feet wet or water comes out of the ceiling from the floor below. In my case, it was both.

 

[Amish Heart]

This is pretty amazing with the appliance dolly....

Nice! I use dollies and wagons all the time, but that guy has talent

 

[old tex]

Long story, sorry. Years ago I saw a story (maybe in money magazine?) that was interesting. It talked about rich people paying once for something & poor people paying 2, 3, 4 times for the same thing. The example they gave was shoes but I'll give an example using my S. F. watch. When he first moved in here (6 years ago) he had a pocket watch that he bragged about because it was so cheap. (When I moved him I saw a draw full of those cheap watches). Anyway he constantly checked the time & had us confirm with our watches. Constant being like 10 times a day or more. The cheap watch didn't keep time well & was always off & he changed it to the right time. After a year of that (him driving us crazy & he replaced the cheap watch twice) we bought him a good watch for Xmas. We paid about 6 times what his cheap watches cost but now, 5 years later it still keeps perfect time.

So the moral of the story (in my mind). I'm basically cheap & I won't pay much for cheap items that I don't expect or even need to last. Yes, I'll buy them at Dollar Tree paying almost nothing for them. Sometimes those things from Dollar Tree both do the job I need & last far longer than I expected. An example off the top of my head is a cheap shoe horn (I'm at that age where I don't want to bend down to put shoes on, getting up is a pain). I bought 2 for a buck & they lasted years & years. Years (& Dachshund puppies) have finally taken their toll on those shoe horns & they need replacing. I know how valuable they are to me so I'm replacing them with a steel shoe horn & I'll pay about 7 times (7 bucks apiece) for them. I'm betting that they will last me the rest of my life. Now that's a small cheap example but it runs through all of the things that you might need in life. If you want something long term, pay a little more for quality. Short term, it doesn't matter. That's a life rule that you can apply & use forever.

 

[old tex]

Here's a memory that came as I posted the above. After my divorce YEARS AGO I was broke, like really broke. The ex took about 70% of everything we had. I needed a bookcase (she didn't take my books, surprise!). Back then it was the early stages of fiberboard if you can remember what that as like. Over the years I kept it even though it had to be propped up by a door frame (it would lean to the point of collapse). Anyway I replaced it after about 10 years with a 120 year old antique bookcase. I don't mind replacing something that may cost money if it does a better job, or looks better.

 

[zoomzoom]

Good posts @old tex

To pile on, I consider things by the number of moving parts. If it's just a piece of wood or steel, it'll probably do OK. Add more moving parts and then you look at it closer to see if those will last. Add a lot of parts, then you really need to look at quality. It can be anything from the aforementioned pocket watch to a vehicle.

I won't mention what I consider mediocre name brands as a comparison (as I don't want to offend anyone here that has a particular product) but I will say if you buy quality brands (e.g. Toyota, Deere, DeWalt...), your amount of issues, frustration and failure will be greatly diminished.

Buy it once and you're good for years, decades or for life.

 

[Mountain trapper]

I have always tried to buy quality made items. Usually that means made in the USA. When I buy something I expect it to last me a lifetime, and then passed down to the next generation. Sometimes you have to hunt for something that's made in the US, but it is out there. All of our furniture is made in the US and is either solid oak or hickory, and zero chip board. Our cabinets are solid hickory, our flooring is solid oak. Most of my tools are made in the US, those that aren't are being replaced. My John Deere tractor is made in India. Don't like that, but at least it isn't Chinese. My tractor implements are all made in the US.
Years ago when I had my welding shop I ordered a bunch of tools and clamps. Turns out they were all made in China. I wouldn't have them in my shop so I gave it all away.
I don't care what other people do, this is just my strategy. I'd rather put Americans to work, not some communist slave in China.

 

[EastenerWesterner]

My strategy has always been it I will use a tool 3 times, I buy it. And I buy quality like the old Craftsman stuff.
As I get older and working between 2 places 400 miles away, if I need something I left at home, do I stall the project off? Or buy at HF 6 miles away? Or at HD 6.5 miles away.
Needed a grinder bought a M brand that fit my batteries at HD. Had 2 plug in ones at home.
Needed a screwdriver, bought a HF screwdriver set.
At 65, I really don’t need the lifetime warranty like I did in my 20s.
Everything is a matter of balance.

 

[old tex]

zoomzoom said:
I won't mention what I consider mediocre name brands as a comparison (as I don't want to offend anyone here that has a particular product) but I will say if you buy quality brands (e.g. Toyota, Deere, DeWalt...), your amount of issues, frustration and failure will be greatly diminished.
EastenerWesterner said:
At 65, I really don’t need the lifetime warranty like I did in my 20s.
Everything is a matter of balance.

Both really good points & they can fit together. I've said this before but here goes: I am NOT HANDY WITH MY HANDS. If I do ANYTHING my wife is standing there with a band aide or gauze pad. Now someone who works with tools for a living, laughs at people that buy black & decker tools. They won't last under those demands, but then they aren't made for that purpose. Nineteen years ago I bought a set of B&D battery power tools & I still have & use every single one of them. I've even got more than I started with because my wife finds them for cheap at garage/estate sales & figures sooner or later they will die....but they haven't. I did replace the batteries with lithium batteries though. The point is buy what you can AFFORD at the time, don't go into debt. Replace them as needed & HOPEFULLY you can afford better later.

 

[Mountain trapper]

At 65, I really don’t need the lifetime warranty like I did in my 20s.
Everything is a matter of balance.

I can understand that, and it makes sense. However, at my age 67, I'll still buy tools and equipment based on quality, not price. I'm over 100 miles away from an HD or other tool stores. There is nothing worse than being out on a remote part of my property and a GD tool breaks. It could be days or weeks before I'm able to replace that tool. We generally only go shopping down south about once a month. Now I am getting better about ordering stuff online, if I'm familiar with the brand. For example, I'm looking for a 5hp motor for my new Jon boat. There were several priced at $500 - $600. Sounded good but they were made in China by a Chinese company. An American boat motor is around $1600. I'll go with the American brand motor like Mercury. Some Mercury outboards are assembled in China with American made motors.

 

[old tex]

Here's a dumb or smart (depending on how you look at it) statement about those B&D tools I bought. I "could have" bought more expensive tools even back then. I did because we were paying off our house & every spare penny went on extra principal on the house. That's what we did back then & we did pay that house off. Then we bought a bigger house & sold that one (for a profit) & paid what we sold it for on this house. We paid this house off (30 year loan) in 8 years. What did we save in paying interest? And we bought this one when prices were down & now it's worth almost 3 times (maybe even more) than we paid for it. I say maybe even more because new houses where I live are selling for $700,000 plus & I figure ours is worth around $330,000, being conservative. I guess the point is doing the right thing at your time in life can have good results in the future.

 

[EastenerWesterner]

I can understand that, and it makes sense. However, at my age 67, I'll still buy tools and equipment based on quality, not price. I'm over 100 miles away from an HD or other tool stores. There is nothing worse than being out on a remote part of my property and a GD tool breaks. It could be days or weeks before I'm able to replace that tool. We generally only go shopping down south about once a month. Now I am getting better about ordering stuff online, if I'm familiar with the brand. For example, I'm looking for a 5hp motor for my new Jon boat. There were several priced at $500 - $600. Sounded good but they were made in China by a Chinese company. An American boat motor is around $1600. I'll go with the American brand motor like Mercury. Some Mercury outboards are assembled in China with American made motors.

I know the remote part and putting in perspective why I am no longer choosing not to be remote. You know my future area.
I can understand an expensive piece of equipment like a boat motor. I have a 15h Honda nobody wants to work on here., but they will sell me a new one. Bet you I can find someone up north to do it.
It’s kinda why I said it’s a balance. I might have the good one here, but I need it up north and now.
My kid is going to have a POD full when he inherits it.

 

[Mountain trapper]

I know the remote part and putting in perspective why I am no longer choosing not to be remote. You know my future area.
I can understand an expensive piece of equipment like a boat motor. I have a 15h Honda nobody wants to work on here., but they will sell me a new one. Bet you I can find someone up north to do it.
It’s kinda why I said it’s a balance. I might have the good one here, but I need it up north and now.
My kid is going to have a POD full when he inherits it.

As much as we love it here and would like to stay forever, I am also aware of my limitations as I get older. Especially with no one around that is willing to help. Right now I'm still able to do everything on my own. But I have to ask myself, when I get old, will I be able to maintain several miles of fence up and down hills? Will I be able to maintain several miles of roads, along with all the breakdowns? Be 3 to 4 hours away from medical help? Be over 100 miles from a fairly decent restaurant? That's why we've started looking at a smaller property over on the coast. We're looking at around 40 acres or so with somewhat flatter ground. We'll put the infrastructure in on the new property and stay here as long as we can/want.

 

[EastenerWesterner]

As much as we love it here and would like to stay forever, I am also aware of my limitations as I get older. Especially with no one around that is willing to help. Right now I'm still able to do everything on my own. But I have to ask myself, when I get old, will I be able to maintain several miles of fence up and down hills? Will I be able to maintain several miles of roads, along with all the breakdowns? Be 3 to 4 hours away from medical help? Be over 100 miles from a fairly decent restaurant? That's why we've started looking at a smaller property over on the coast. We're looking at around 40 acres or so with somewhat flatter ground. We'll put the infrastructure in on the new property and stay here as long as we can/want.

Exactly where I am coming from.
I want to make it easier for either of us to handle with out the other.
It might not be our current ideal loved space, but manageable for 1 of us.
Hope we are neighbors or within a drive soon.

 

[Mountain trapper]

Exactly where I am coming from.
I want to make it easier for either of us to handle with out the other.
It might not be our current ideal loved space, but manageable for 1 of us.
Hope we are neighbors or within a drive soon.

We've discussed this and have a plan. If something were to happen to me the wife would immediately put this place on the market. Then she'd contact an auctioneer and sell almost everything we own. She'd take what she wants and then sell the rest. That's why we're trying to identify where we would go. One of the areas that we're interested in is just north of your place.