Thinking of burying a conex/seabox as a bunker. Anyone with experience with this. Is a sealant needed, covering for corrosion control. for lack of a better phrase french drains around it. Best depth, multiple entrances or usefull info.
underground bunker
- Thread starter hightechredneck
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Make sure you reinforce the roof and walls, they'll cave in otherwise. I'd seal it just to be on the safe side.
No clue, how much a conex cost anyway?
varies based on how close you are to them and size/condition. Looks like I have to get them hauled in from a ways away. still waiting for quotes
Some of us at the moment cant afford "bomb shelters" so we
should have more threads on fortifying our current locations.
I plan on buggin in, so im working on fortifying my current location
should have more threads on fortifying our current locations.
I plan on buggin in, so im working on fortifying my current location
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2013
- Messages
- 9
Our bunker is a completely water tight 30' boat, we have attached a ventilation system,which also serves
as a escape hatch,in the rear, a main hatch toward the front both with vented filters (both made of steel)
Its completly reinforced inside, with beams,fiberglass & epoxy resin and boat paint. 4 bunks, & master bedroom, alot of storage areas.
With a center lounge area. We buried it 5' underground and the upper part mounded over, we had to do this due to the water
table being so high in Fla. It looks like a above ground drainfeild.
Oh the back vent can be used as a cooking area, and is designed so that
If a intruder decided to pour something into it, which would be very difficult considering the designed of it, but if they succeeded at the bottom of the shaft is a holding area, where it has at neck comming off if it
comeing thru the transom, with a steel door we can shut, for blowback. If they ever get that close.
Both have security locks.
It has 120 volt system, with breaker box, and 6 batterys, with converters, have 120volt lights, and 8, 12 volt.
Microwave, small refrigerator, cook stove.
Working on solar powered battery charger.
We are working on a concrete building that will be accessed underground from the bunker, which will have the kitchen
facilities, and bathroom with water, have everything but the building built.
2 gens, one will be in a Faraday box.
We have a 4000 gal water tank (stainless) mounted on a trailer,400 gal holding
tank attached to the house gutter capture system. & our well.
Presently getting food to store in bunker. And have just started a garden. We are talking about the idea of
Getting a few chicks, & rabbits,
Plus we have multiple security systems in place.
Surprising we did not hit water when we dug the hole
as a escape hatch,in the rear, a main hatch toward the front both with vented filters (both made of steel)
Its completly reinforced inside, with beams,fiberglass & epoxy resin and boat paint. 4 bunks, & master bedroom, alot of storage areas.
With a center lounge area. We buried it 5' underground and the upper part mounded over, we had to do this due to the water
table being so high in Fla. It looks like a above ground drainfeild.
Oh the back vent can be used as a cooking area, and is designed so that
If a intruder decided to pour something into it, which would be very difficult considering the designed of it, but if they succeeded at the bottom of the shaft is a holding area, where it has at neck comming off if it
comeing thru the transom, with a steel door we can shut, for blowback. If they ever get that close.
Both have security locks.
It has 120 volt system, with breaker box, and 6 batterys, with converters, have 120volt lights, and 8, 12 volt.
Microwave, small refrigerator, cook stove.
Working on solar powered battery charger.
We are working on a concrete building that will be accessed underground from the bunker, which will have the kitchen
facilities, and bathroom with water, have everything but the building built.
2 gens, one will be in a Faraday box.
We have a 4000 gal water tank (stainless) mounted on a trailer,400 gal holding
tank attached to the house gutter capture system. & our well.
Presently getting food to store in bunker. And have just started a garden. We are talking about the idea of
Getting a few chicks, & rabbits,
Plus we have multiple security systems in place.
Surprising we did not hit water when we dug the hole
If only I had the land to put one!
You are more than willing to install a bunker on my property, bearing my knowledge of its existence and potentially a few other minor technicalities. No leasing or rental required.
That is an open offer.
Our bunker is a completely water tight 30' boat, we have attached a ventilation system,which also serves
as a escape hatch,in the rear, a main hatch toward the front both with vented filters (both made of steel)
Its completly reinforced inside, with beams,fiberglass & epoxy resin and boat paint. 4 bunks, & master bedroom, alot of storage areas.
With a center lounge area. We buried it 5' underground and the upper part mounded over, we had to do this due to the water
table being so high in Fla. It looks like a above ground drainfeild.
Oh the back vent can be used as a cooking area, and is designed so that
If a intruder decided to pour something into it, which would be very difficult considering the designed of it, but if they succeeded at the bottom of the shaft is a holding area, where it has at neck comming off if it
comeing thru the transom, with a steel door we can shut, for blowback. If they ever get that close.
Both have security locks.
It has 120 volt system, with breaker box, and 6 batterys, with converters, have 120volt lights, and 8, 12 volt.
Microwave, small refrigerator, cook stove.
Working on solar powered battery charger.
We are working on a concrete building that will be accessed underground from the bunker, which will have the kitchen
facilities, and bathroom with water, have everything but the building built.
2 gens, one will be in a Faraday box.
We have a 4000 gal water tank (stainless) mounted on a trailer,400 gal holding
tank attached to the house gutter capture system. & our well.
Presently getting food to store in bunker. And have just started a garden. We are talking about the idea of
Getting a few chicks, & rabbits,
Plus we have multiple security systems in place.
Surprising we did not hit water when we dug the hole
very cool.
I want to put an old terry taurus trailer into my basement, and turn my small little house into a green house, aquaponics place and convert my garage into a stable and my shed into a chicken coop.
My bomb shelter is going to be an old abandoned storm drain system that runs under my basement,.. if i can get the bilge/sump stuff sorted out. I also want to do some tunneling.. legality of course is another matter... lol
ps I've set up a 250 watt solar system if you'd like any words on setting yours up
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2012
- Messages
- 18,449
Sorry shewolf. Where you able to reinforce walls first?Update- ceiling caved in,completly filled in with dirt and water
.
Man that is horrible. Sorry to hear that. I know what that feels like.
The thing about going underground is that not every structure will work. As much as it goes against my DIY mentality I felt the need to have plans drawn up by a structural engineer because after doing the math I knew how easy it would be to make a simple but catastrophic miscalculation.
I just want to keep someone from getting killed. Dirt weighs approx 78 pounds per cubic foot. A 15 x 30 bunker buried 10 feet deep is 4500 cubic feet of dirt weighing in at 351,000 pounds. Had I have gone with my original idea I would have made my grave. People just be careful out there.
The thing about going underground is that not every structure will work. As much as it goes against my DIY mentality I felt the need to have plans drawn up by a structural engineer because after doing the math I knew how easy it would be to make a simple but catastrophic miscalculation.
I just want to keep someone from getting killed. Dirt weighs approx 78 pounds per cubic foot. A 15 x 30 bunker buried 10 feet deep is 4500 cubic feet of dirt weighing in at 351,000 pounds. Had I have gone with my original idea I would have made my grave. People just be careful out there.
maybe you can still salvage it if it is only the roof... perhaps try using a multiple level partial trench, by mounting dirt and sand around it rather than ontop of it.
I would geuss you could not go as deep by putting a metal barrier overtop, which could also perhaps be used as structural support, or even, "wire mesh" or just leave "trenches". I was looking at the "how to survive nuclear war" pdf https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDMQFjAA&url=http://www.nukepills.com/docs/nuclear_war_survival_skills.pdf&ei=bUtZUcEyx9bRAYmigKgH&usg=AFQjCNHGy_wTqWGB9TLmGdz0EAZdWHT2gg&bvm=bv.44442042,d.dmQ
apparently one of the methods will take out 99% of gamma rays is using a trench, then putting logs overtop the trench, I suspect the logs could further handle more sand ontop of them, then you can also lump pies of dirt on either side of the trench but back far enough to remove cave in risk, or sand bags. to create a pillbox or sand bags ontop.. picture coming soon.
apparently even a trench system will protect against 99% of gamma rays, you can also create "layers of dirt" by making wood layers with logs even if not just the top layer. you can also build "above ground and use metal barriers instead of sand.
You don't need to use sandbags but could use mounds of dirt instead but I find sandbags if covered in a little bit of soil will probably provide more protection from erosion over time. burrying propylene bags would proably be best, you might want to support the earth walls, if possible with metal sheeting to give some EMP resistance. I would suslect campers with metal siding as opposed to plastic would have a high emp reistance, and it would be fairly simple to ground them.
a total of 3ft barrier of earth will provide protection from 99.9% of gamma rays.
gaving a much smaller surface area and multiple levels allow you to use "weaker" support materials such as wood to hold a an amount of dirt at multiple layers, while the logs themselves woudl also provide a layer. Even small metal pipes could be used for that purpose or pvc tubes, which can both be filled with dirt AND act as a surface to support. Old car or fridge aluminum or steel frames doors etc.. could aslo be used.
you could also build an earth dome overtop with sandbags.
http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/pdf/dome.pdf
earth domes tend to be able to support a little bit of weight so filling it over with a little sand would provide I would suspect easily 3 ft of dirt between the dome the log roof and the itnermediate metal barrier.
air filtration would be another step through, but is suspect, covering the entire thing in plastic sheets and covering them in dirt except for your air intakes would probably provide a substantial amount of air protection for the structure. However not 100% also covering each layer with a plastic layer would probably create quite a bit of air protection and I suspect it would be a bit like putting a plastic bag over your head. Protecting from fallout is apparently not overly difficult. having ameans of uncloging the air filters might be required though, but in simply having something to be overtop of the "air intake such as having it under layer 1 would probably be sufficient fallout protection, having some sort of filter charcoal that can be switched out would probably be useful, and I would suspect you would need a fan on the end of the intake to suck air in, and a reverse fan on the way out. to expect bad air at the sealing, as I would suspect used up air will be hoter and rise to the top while fresh air will be lower to the ground. if the heating is kept hotter than the surface temperature which could be gauged by a surface mounted thermometer and a ground mounted thermometer..
I would geuss you could not go as deep by putting a metal barrier overtop, which could also perhaps be used as structural support, or even, "wire mesh" or just leave "trenches". I was looking at the "how to survive nuclear war" pdf https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDMQFjAA&url=http://www.nukepills.com/docs/nuclear_war_survival_skills.pdf&ei=bUtZUcEyx9bRAYmigKgH&usg=AFQjCNHGy_wTqWGB9TLmGdz0EAZdWHT2gg&bvm=bv.44442042,d.dmQ
apparently one of the methods will take out 99% of gamma rays is using a trench, then putting logs overtop the trench, I suspect the logs could further handle more sand ontop of them, then you can also lump pies of dirt on either side of the trench but back far enough to remove cave in risk, or sand bags. to create a pillbox or sand bags ontop.. picture coming soon.
apparently even a trench system will protect against 99% of gamma rays, you can also create "layers of dirt" by making wood layers with logs even if not just the top layer. you can also build "above ground and use metal barriers instead of sand.
You don't need to use sandbags but could use mounds of dirt instead but I find sandbags if covered in a little bit of soil will probably provide more protection from erosion over time. burrying propylene bags would proably be best, you might want to support the earth walls, if possible with metal sheeting to give some EMP resistance. I would suslect campers with metal siding as opposed to plastic would have a high emp reistance, and it would be fairly simple to ground them.
a total of 3ft barrier of earth will provide protection from 99.9% of gamma rays.
gaving a much smaller surface area and multiple levels allow you to use "weaker" support materials such as wood to hold a an amount of dirt at multiple layers, while the logs themselves woudl also provide a layer. Even small metal pipes could be used for that purpose or pvc tubes, which can both be filled with dirt AND act as a surface to support. Old car or fridge aluminum or steel frames doors etc.. could aslo be used.
you could also build an earth dome overtop with sandbags.
http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/pdf/dome.pdf
earth domes tend to be able to support a little bit of weight so filling it over with a little sand would provide I would suspect easily 3 ft of dirt between the dome the log roof and the itnermediate metal barrier.
air filtration would be another step through, but is suspect, covering the entire thing in plastic sheets and covering them in dirt except for your air intakes would probably provide a substantial amount of air protection for the structure. However not 100% also covering each layer with a plastic layer would probably create quite a bit of air protection and I suspect it would be a bit like putting a plastic bag over your head. Protecting from fallout is apparently not overly difficult. having ameans of uncloging the air filters might be required though, but in simply having something to be overtop of the "air intake such as having it under layer 1 would probably be sufficient fallout protection, having some sort of filter charcoal that can be switched out would probably be useful, and I would suspect you would need a fan on the end of the intake to suck air in, and a reverse fan on the way out. to expect bad air at the sealing, as I would suspect used up air will be hoter and rise to the top while fresh air will be lower to the ground. if the heating is kept hotter than the surface temperature which could be gauged by a surface mounted thermometer and a ground mounted thermometer..
i still dont know how 3 ft of dirt can protect us from gamma radiation? i know of lead and how the different wave lengths aren't able to bypass certain elements. but dirt? maybe the fact that it is 3 feet. i know that a lot of something can protect one from almost anything. and instead of burrying some one bunkers so deep, why not use a thin layer of lead? but lead is heavier i understand, but what about lead paint? on the outside of course, but if not lead then what about some other materials?
Every barrier helps. Some more than others. If its really your biggest fear check with a professional. I've worked around radiation and radioactive materials but I'm not qualified to give a recommendation that's bulletproof when it comes to improvising an effective barrier other than the 10 ft that I've heard second hand.
I do know that lead paint won't do jack though. It's the thickness of the dense material that slows the microwave radiation and filters it down to nothing. Ill see if I can find something to show what I mean.
Nuclear explosion produces Gamma
radiation exposure is controlled by time distance and shielding. time is time exposed to the source, less time less exposure. Distance the further you are away from the source the lower te dose and shielding, placeing some form of attenuating material between you and the source. if your good with math you can look at http://pbadupws.nrc.gov/docs/ML1122/ML11229A721.pdf but it can be a bit over-the-top.
one that seams a bit less in your face is http://www.nukeworker.com/study/hp/neu/Part_2_Radiation_Protection/RP-4_Radiation_Protection.pdf but kinda long
one that seams a bit less in your face is http://www.nukeworker.com/study/hp/neu/Part_2_Radiation_Protection/RP-4_Radiation_Protection.pdf but kinda long
I made a youtube video this morning that exlains this a bit.
gamma radiation comes in at different tangents. When the energy passes through dirt it is passing through atoms and molecules. It dissipates energy as it travels it also has the chance of hitting reverse feilds, or core of atoms which can deflect it. The reason why lead is effective is because it is very dense so it makes it more difficult to travel through it. The density also increases the chance of making contact with those counter fields and cores.
Its a bit like going through one line of scrimmage or one million.
another option is putting a gamma ray reflector at some stage?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X-ray_optics
for densities
Air1.2
Wood700
Water (fresh)1,000
Water (salt)1,030
Plastics1,175
Aluminium2,700
Iron7,870
Copper8,940
Lead11,340
Gold19,320
Platinum21,450
Iridium22,420
Osmium22,570
another consideration is use of gases to create lift as opposed to adding weight
These substances can sheild but sheild far to little unless you are very far underground to use them as a sheilding medium. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lighter_than_air
at smaller depths it would be mostly negligible.
air being 1.2 at sea level, you would still be better protected using methane than air.
Insulating with plastics seems to be a better solution than air for sure.. since plastics offer more protection than wood. Aluminum might be another option since it offers nearly twice as much protection than plastic and 3 times as much as wood.
the difference between plastic sheets and soil is that sheets may be able to be grounded into the surounding eart easier or even draped from the subsurface to the surface to allow for angular runnoff.
plastics offer almost no density advantage over soil
loose soil is about 1200 vs plastics 1170 while packed soil is 1600 somewhat less than aluminum. 2700 The advantage of aluminum, steel or copper layers is that they can be used to provide a structural sheet that extends into the earth wall. of course these materials may be expensive.
got some old cars
http://www.friedmanarchives.com/Non-Gallery-Images-1/images/Junkyard 8x12 300 dpi.jpg
of course the classic is the school bus.. designed to hold oodles of weight. http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/cheap-shelters/message/3556
so arches grounded to the "hard points" on the bus or container should provide more support than simply mounting all the weight on the weak points.
example
http://www.chinabuses.org/uploadfile/news/uploadfile/201112/20111205084324468.jpg
here is a stripped bus
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/dodge_rebuild/part3.htm
here is construction of an rv
eg. you might be able to use some sloped flat racks above your container to bear some of the weight
or use multiple containers stacked ontop of one another with protective materials in the upper layers, but they being stacked to the structural hardpoints on the container.
which in turn can be used for structural supports, holding tanks, supply storage etc..
example having cross sections that are burried into the earth as opposed to completely being supported by one another.
CHECK OUT the map 2:30 ON THIS ONE.. and this is only one business
dod seems to be building a lot of these underground bunkers.
every us state capital.... some holding up to 300 people not exactly dumbs but it is just this guy...
gamma radiation comes in at different tangents. When the energy passes through dirt it is passing through atoms and molecules. It dissipates energy as it travels it also has the chance of hitting reverse feilds, or core of atoms which can deflect it. The reason why lead is effective is because it is very dense so it makes it more difficult to travel through it. The density also increases the chance of making contact with those counter fields and cores.
Its a bit like going through one line of scrimmage or one million.
another option is putting a gamma ray reflector at some stage?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X-ray_optics
for densities
Air1.2
Wood700
Water (fresh)1,000
Water (salt)1,030
Plastics1,175
Aluminium2,700
Iron7,870
Copper8,940
Lead11,340
Gold19,320
Platinum21,450
Iridium22,420
Osmium22,570
another consideration is use of gases to create lift as opposed to adding weight
These substances can sheild but sheild far to little unless you are very far underground to use them as a sheilding medium. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lighter_than_air
at smaller depths it would be mostly negligible.
air being 1.2 at sea level, you would still be better protected using methane than air.
Insulating with plastics seems to be a better solution than air for sure.. since plastics offer more protection than wood. Aluminum might be another option since it offers nearly twice as much protection than plastic and 3 times as much as wood.
the difference between plastic sheets and soil is that sheets may be able to be grounded into the surounding eart easier or even draped from the subsurface to the surface to allow for angular runnoff.
plastics offer almost no density advantage over soil
loose soil is about 1200 vs plastics 1170 while packed soil is 1600 somewhat less than aluminum. 2700 The advantage of aluminum, steel or copper layers is that they can be used to provide a structural sheet that extends into the earth wall. of course these materials may be expensive.
got some old cars http://www.friedmanarchives.com/Non-Gallery-Images-1/images/Junkyard 8x12 300 dpi.jpg
of course the classic is the school bus.. designed to hold oodles of weight. http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/cheap-shelters/message/3556
so arches grounded to the "hard points" on the bus or container should provide more support than simply mounting all the weight on the weak points.
example
http://www.chinabuses.org/uploadfile/news/uploadfile/201112/20111205084324468.jpg
here is a stripped bus
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/dodge_rebuild/part3.htm
here is construction of an rv
eg. you might be able to use some sloped flat racks above your container to bear some of the weight
or use multiple containers stacked ontop of one another with protective materials in the upper layers, but they being stacked to the structural hardpoints on the container.
which in turn can be used for structural supports, holding tanks, supply storage etc..
example having cross sections that are burried into the earth as opposed to completely being supported by one another.
CHECK OUT the map 2:30 ON THIS ONE.. and this is only one business
dod seems to be building a lot of these underground bunkers.
every us state capital.... some holding up to 300 people
not exactly dumbs but it is just this guy...
Kind of within topic.
Should there be a situation that forces us to take shelter from fallout what would you wear of you would have to leave your shelter within hours or within a day or two. Rain coat?
Should there be a situation that forces us to take shelter from fallout what would you wear of you would have to leave your shelter within hours or within a day or two. Rain coat?
First off, it depends, if we are talking about a nuclear blast, it depends on various factors. Where the weapons or meltdown hit, why they hit or meltdown, what is ongoing as a result. Stay tuned to the radio but know that radio signals can be hijacked and overtaken, having a network of trusted informants, you have HF contact ability, the phone network should it exist, the internet should it be available, AMSAT, or pony express and whatnot.
You shouldn't leave your shelter unless you need to or want to. If you are near a blast you may have fallout. If you are away from a blast fallout may take time to reach you that is radiation from say Asia or other parts of North America that will travel with wind currents, and water flows.
It is pretty crazy to answer your question though, there are NBC suits available, I just picked one up for about $25 it is a MKIV, but they are old, some russian systems are sold for less (than non russian systems) , and lots of army surplus places in the states sell the stuff cheap, but often don't export it out of the US... due to ITAR or just keeping the supplies local.
None the less you want to wear layers so you can remove them if contaminated. Decontamination is more complex though. Usually people can survive the radiation that is left after a blast, leaving an area is prudent if you don't have adequette sheilding based upon your location. People have lifetime rad limits and shortterm rad limits. Having some way of situational awareness is ideal, even if it is through bunker networks with repeaters set up but that could make you a target in wartime.
None the less the MOPP suit is a popular american NBC system.. all I have really is the MKIV British NBC suit, and I think a MKIII suit that is probably too small for me, these suits are older than I would like, get something new if you have the money for it. Along with that I have rubber gloves, although they are a little too old for my liking too, having kevlar gloves to go over top or anything that will airseal and be non permeable is ideal. Additionally I have a chinese gas mask, although depending on the type of incident I suggest getting something that is rated for both ammonia/chlorine gas as well as particle filter and standard NATO40mm type filter. most filters do not protect against common and easy to produce chemical agents such as ammonia gas. Having a drinking straw may also help but these filters are generally for a day or two only before needing to change them I have a few filters, two newer chinese filters, and an older "new" russian one, and an older "russian one" I hope I'd never need to use the Russian ones, my russian mask is actually with someone else at the moment but the filters are interchangable. The Russian mask is more of a backup or for someone who I can "save", which is also what my second chem suit is going to once my MKIV arrives.
Additionally I have my boots but having rubber booties is also a common part, you want to totally seal yourself off to all outside air.
A roll of ducttape.. just to suppliment the Velcro around the wrists and ankles.
In the winter.. I think have a US level 5 or 6 windwet gen III jacket that could go overtop, and a Russian style black winter jacket that could fit over that, although I would probably be OK with just the suit if I keep moving. I also have snow pants gen III ecws level 7
In the summer you can take your chances.. you might want to get a few of those cold packs in the suit with you.
A raincoat is better than nothing.. you want to prevent the danger from being in contact with you.... and to reduce your exposure as much as possible. However dying of dehydration also would not be good you need to mitigate the risks. NBC protections usually is more important that hydration but hydration is not well beyond that
Bear in mind charcoal in both filters and NBC suits can degrade.. check what your military uses and start researching.
Note that some suits are only chem or biochem, while some are more NBC, for an actual nuke suit it can get expensive... wear your bunker.
a mask, suit, gloves and booties are a bit of a standard,
if you have a good NBC vehicle even better.
getting all zombie looking.. none the less the best ones will be pressurized.. they actually pushback..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=DVD6yU8KRAQ&NR=1
If you are anywhere near a nuclear blast you want to submerge yourself in salt water as soon as possible after... incorporating salt water tanks into your shelter is a good go if they will provide you a chance to bath in sea salt water.
Bear in mind that there are just a whole lot of factors on how you respond, in some cases leaving and evacuating may be the best option in others staying put may be. There are just a lot of factors to take into account. But a rain coat IS better than naked.
http://www.ibiblio.org/rcip/nuclear.html
You shouldn't leave your shelter unless you need to or want to. If you are near a blast you may have fallout. If you are away from a blast fallout may take time to reach you that is radiation from say Asia or other parts of North America that will travel with wind currents, and water flows.
It is pretty crazy to answer your question though, there are NBC suits available, I just picked one up for about $25 it is a MKIV, but they are old, some russian systems are sold for less (than non russian systems) , and lots of army surplus places in the states sell the stuff cheap, but often don't export it out of the US... due to ITAR or just keeping the supplies local.
None the less you want to wear layers so you can remove them if contaminated. Decontamination is more complex though. Usually people can survive the radiation that is left after a blast, leaving an area is prudent if you don't have adequette sheilding based upon your location. People have lifetime rad limits and shortterm rad limits. Having some way of situational awareness is ideal, even if it is through bunker networks with repeaters set up but that could make you a target in wartime.
None the less the MOPP suit is a popular american NBC system.. all I have really is the MKIV British NBC suit, and I think a MKIII suit that is probably too small for me, these suits are older than I would like, get something new if you have the money for it. Along with that I have rubber gloves, although they are a little too old for my liking too, having kevlar gloves to go over top or anything that will airseal and be non permeable is ideal. Additionally I have a chinese gas mask, although depending on the type of incident I suggest getting something that is rated for both ammonia/chlorine gas as well as particle filter and standard NATO40mm type filter. most filters do not protect against common and easy to produce chemical agents such as ammonia gas. Having a drinking straw may also help but these filters are generally for a day or two only before needing to change them I have a few filters, two newer chinese filters, and an older "new" russian one, and an older "russian one" I hope I'd never need to use the Russian ones, my russian mask is actually with someone else at the moment but the filters are interchangable. The Russian mask is more of a backup or for someone who I can "save", which is also what my second chem suit is going to once my MKIV arrives.
Additionally I have my boots but having rubber booties is also a common part, you want to totally seal yourself off to all outside air.
A roll of ducttape.. just to suppliment the Velcro around the wrists and ankles.
In the winter.. I think have a US level 5 or 6 windwet gen III jacket that could go overtop, and a Russian style black winter jacket that could fit over that, although I would probably be OK with just the suit if I keep moving. I also have snow pants gen III ecws level 7
In the summer you can take your chances.. you might want to get a few of those cold packs in the suit with you.
A raincoat is better than nothing.. you want to prevent the danger from being in contact with you.... and to reduce your exposure as much as possible. However dying of dehydration also would not be good you need to mitigate the risks. NBC protections usually is more important that hydration but hydration is not well beyond that
Bear in mind charcoal in both filters and NBC suits can degrade.. check what your military uses and start researching.
Note that some suits are only chem or biochem, while some are more NBC, for an actual nuke suit it can get expensive... wear your bunker.
a mask, suit, gloves and booties are a bit of a standard,
if you have a good NBC vehicle even better.
getting all zombie looking.. none the less the best ones will be pressurized.. they actually pushback..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=DVD6yU8KRAQ&NR=1
If you are anywhere near a nuclear blast you want to submerge yourself in salt water as soon as possible after... incorporating salt water tanks into your shelter is a good go if they will provide you a chance to bath in sea salt water.
Bear in mind that there are just a whole lot of factors on how you respond, in some cases leaving and evacuating may be the best option in others staying put may be. There are just a lot of factors to take into account. But a rain coat IS better than naked.
http://www.ibiblio.org/rcip/nuclear.html
@WilliamAshley.
Thanks for this very helpful information. Must admit I did not understand it all due to my lack of English skills. But just done surfing the net and there are at least two stores in Oslo where I can get at least some of the stuff you mentioned. Not very expensive so I am happy. Now I need to actually visit the stores and check. There are possible to buy some used military equipment that gives better protection than a rain coat...
Not sure if they have suits that has good radiation protection but they have lots of protection against chemicals.
Rubber gloves and rubber booties already in the house, so is ducktape. Gas mask was cheap. This will be a big improvement.
This was very helpful indeed
Thanks for this very helpful information. Must admit I did not understand it all due to my lack of English skills. But just done surfing the net and there are at least two stores in Oslo where I can get at least some of the stuff you mentioned. Not very expensive so I am happy. Now I need to actually visit the stores and check. There are possible to buy some used military equipment that gives better protection than a rain coat...
Not sure if they have suits that has good radiation protection but they have lots of protection against chemicals.
Rubber gloves and rubber booties already in the house, so is ducktape. Gas mask was cheap. This will be a big improvement.
This was very helpful indeed
@The Norwegian
Look for Norwegian Forums on this topic.
It is very important if you want to live in the event of a nuclear incident.
PS I am a certified English instructor if you would like to learn more English.
Look for Norwegian Forums on this topic.
It is very important if you want to live in the event of a nuclear incident.
PS I am a certified English instructor if you would like to learn more English.
@ William
Nice info dude. Thats some good stuff to think about. Thanks.
Nice info dude. Thats some good stuff to think about. Thanks.
I'll hope people understand me . Should I need some help you'll here from me . Nice of you!!!
. Nice of you!!!
I would listen to WilliamAshley, and put dirt all around it but not on the roof, maybe a centimeter or less, just enough to turn the roof into a giant chia pet...
u want a drainage system around anything you bury , and when using a steel container u always want to seal the outside! when burying it to prevent rust or corrosion tar paint is fine for this . 1 entrance and an escape hatch of somesort is always wise . make sure the doors have good sealing u never know what type of crisis may occur wether its nuclear or chemical pollution, somesort of air purification system or scrubber, make sure when burying it to have a good sand base for settling purposes,
I recently read an article about storm shelters and thought they made a great point.
If you install a door, make sure it opens inward, so that if debris is ontop of it, you can still open the door.
They also suggested keeping some tools in side to help remove the debris. Sledge hammers, saws, things like that.
If you install a door, make sure it opens inward, so that if debris is ontop of it, you can still open the door.
They also suggested keeping some tools in side to help remove the debris. Sledge hammers, saws, things like that.
