http://www.ritchiespecs.com/ a site that you can go to for info on industrial equipment
We found our land.
Congratulations! Have you closed on it already?
We will close in three weeks.
I bought one of these OWL. I would have never got done here without it. Best investment ever. http://www.terraforceinc.com/root_grappleI spent some time in John Deere tractor seats today. The person that talked about ergonomics was dead on. The 5E series doesn't fit a 6'5" person as well as the 5M series. I found the control layout of the bigger tractor much easier to use. There significant difference in cost between a 5045/55/65/75 and the 5085.
Dealer recommended a root grapple for the types of invasive trees in my area. He had not heard about the Danuser, but thought is was a good idea.
Something to remember with basically all American tractors built in the late 70s or early 80s, except for John Deere - the quality of these models is generally a little lower. For example, the IH 60 series (966, 1066, etc) seem to have been made with better components and QC than the 80 series (986, 1086, etc). This applies to Case, Allis Chalmers, IH, White, Massey, and the rest. All these companies were having financial issues in that time period.I'm looking at buying 2 tractors as mentioned above. One 100+ hp tractor/loader and a compact 30-35 hp tractor for actually doing the majority of the work. I will also need the implements for the compact. I'm looking at something like perhaps the JD 850, 950, or 10,50. Basically a non computer model. Even the Ford 1700, 1710, 1900, 1910, or 1920 so long as it has a loader. 4x4 being preferred. I'm not afraid to buy a Yanmar 30 hp tractor/loader either. For the large tractor/loader I have gravitated from the John Deere to I think an International 1066, 1086, 1206, etc. Perhaps a 766 or 966 although they are not qute as bit. I have ben studying the differences in models, but I prefer a +100 hp tractor/loader. Looking presently at a 1456. And then! I found the Black Stripe Edition. Should be an interesting next couple of months. I hope everyone enjoys a very Merry Christmas.
Ah, the old 8N's . They were everywhere in Bama and I worked on hundreds back in the late 70's.I have a small homestead at ten acres so I wasn't looking for anything too large. Ended up purchasing two 1948 Ford 8N's, one that runs and one for parts. Old but tough as nails, and at 25-30hp is probably all I'm going to need. Putting the other front tire on tomorrow but still have to replace the brake shoes, rear hub seals, and do engine oil and transmission gear oil changes. Still make brand new parts for this model as well, and they are very common where I live where most farms are small, family-run operations and not for profit.
There's quite a few dealers close by: Kubota, Tri-Green, L&S, and Mahindra. Was thinking about one day getting something newer and restoring the 8N as a showpiece.
Thanks for that info. You just put the normal engine oil in it?Ah, the old 8N's . They were everywhere in Bama and I worked on hundreds back in the late 70's.
Since they were Fords and I was a diehard Chevy fan, I never admitted how great they were.
The only weak part I remember was the distributor, it would lock up and strip the gear on the cam. Big problem!
Being a lazy guy, I found a shortcut.
To change the cam, you had to tear the front end off, pull the engine and put it upside down on the work bench so the lifters didn't fall into the oil pan when you pulled the cam out. A lot of work!
We had an overhead I-beam trolley over the service bay. I would remove the radiator and front gear cover.
Then I would hook chains to the front axle and string it up a little past vertical.
Up a ladder and out comes the old cam, and the new one slides in.
I cut the labor by 75%. Never underestimate the ability of a lazy person to find the easiest way.
...The boss still charged them the book quote though. (and pocketed the rest) .
Edit: And if this little gold cup doesn't get a few drops of oil for years and years, the above happens .
View attachment 101436
Yeah.Thanks for that info. You just put the normal engine oil in it?
I have the 12v conversion on mine but I'll definitely put some oil in the distributor when I change it.Yeah.
But you need to do it at least every couple years.
When the old-fashioned oil-squirter cans went away, 8N's started dying.
Edit: And the generators had 2 oil cups on them, one at each end of the shaft.
Back one at 11:00, front one at 1:30.
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