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Don't you have a section of adjustable stove pipe in your chimny? Can you cut the bottom of the pipe off to fit?

We are going to try some alterations today. I'm going to go buy some different shaped pipes.

I checked internet last night when it states that a slight downward slope can work since i have the tall chimney which causes more draft.

I have 30 days to return. Since it's for emergencies , I'm leaning toward trying to make it work.

We're going to give it a trial run this afternoon after we get it together. My brother wants me to cut off the legs but They are so cute.
 
On my cast iron stove it came with out a door gasket. So I bought a piece of bulk gasket material (looks rope) and some high temp glue. I cut it to fit the inside of the door and glued it in place. Now the door fits tighter, is better sealed, will produce more heat and it slows down the burn somewhat.

Would that be the silver braid type rope?
 
We are going to try some alterations today. I'm going to go buy some different shaped pipes.

I checked internet last night when it states that a slight downward slope can work since i have the tall chimney which causes more draft.

I have 30 days to return. Since it's for emergencies , I'm leaning toward trying to make it work.

We're going to give it a trial run this afternoon after we get it together. My brother wants me to cut off the legs but They are so cute.
Both of my chimney's have a section of adjustable pipe. This pipe will slide up and down in order to match the height of your wood stove. Once it's attached to your stove you can put in a couple self driving sheet metal screws to hold it in place.
 
Okay, I have the stove fired up even though it's 60 outside. Wanted to test it and burn the smell while husband is gone. To be so small, it is putting out some heat. I only put a few small pieces in it to test. No smoke leaks at all. Went out and the smoke is coming out of the chimney as it's supposed to.
 
ARCTIC, just to test it, I put in the KAO wool and placed fire bricks on top. We shall see. I hope I don't get some type of surprise fire inspection. I'm sure we broke many rules.
Take a look inside your stove. Is there a baffle that runs the full length of your stove and about an inch or so from the top? If so that's where that "wool" is supposed to go. Between the baffle and the inside top of your stove. Its supposed to reduce the emmissions from the wood smoke.
 
Take a look inside your stove. Is there a baffle that runs the full length of your stove and about an inch or so from the top? If so that's where that "wool" is supposed to go. Between the baffle and the inside top of your stove. Its supposed to reduce the emmissions from the wood smoke.

Nothing there. Oh well, most on the internet say its worthless any way. Maybe it will help hold heat or something. They said the same ifnthe fire bricks. I can always remove them later. I am definitely going to put the rope gasket around.

Arctic, did you put the gasket around the door or the opening? It seems that there is less chance of knocking it off if it is on the actual door not the opening.
 
Nothing there. Oh well, most on the internet say its worthless any way. Maybe it will help hold heat or something. They said the same ifnthe fire bricks. I can always remove them later. I am definitely going to put the rope gasket around.

Arctic, did you put the gasket around the door or the opening? It seems that there is less chance of knocking it off if it is on the actual door not the opening.
I put the gasket material around the inside of the door. My stove had a indent in the inside of the door. I don't know why a gasket didn't come with the stove.
That's interesting about that wool. Mine was already between the baffle and the top of the stove. I started one fire before I threw it away. The manual that came with my stove recommended against fire bricks or a grate. They didn't give any reason for the fire brick. The grate I can (almost) understand because it could allow the fire to burn too hot. The only issue that I could see with the fire brick is that it could limit the size of log that you can load.
 
Funny, both my sheet steel and the cast iron have fire bricks. Bottom and sides are completely covered about 2 inches thick.
I would think that anything between the fire and the chimney (wool) would just get full of soot, foul up like a filter and maybe even start burning if it gets overfilled. Chimney fires come only from not well burning oils from the wood if form of soot. The extra heat tries to get as much of the 180 different oils found in firewood to combust completely. The whole idea of a rocket stove. Extreme heat in the chimney draws better and burns the oils completely and only steam comes out the top.
 
Damn, I wanted to clean the flue today of the stove on the porch. Don’t know why I never thought of this before, but in the past I would get a ladder and climb to the roof. I was painting in my master bedroom today and looked out the 2nd story window. I can step out the window onto the roof and the stove pipe is like 4’ away. Hopefully I’ll get it cleaned this weekend.
 
Funny, both my sheet steel and the cast iron have fire bricks. Bottom and sides are completely covered about 2 inches thick.
I would think that anything between the fire and the chimney (wool) would just get full of soot, foul up like a filter and maybe even start burning if it gets overfilled. Chimney fires come only from not well burning oils from the wood if form of soot. The extra heat tries to get as much of the 180 different oils found in firewood to combust completely. The whole idea of a rocket stove. Extreme heat in the chimney draws better and burns the oils completely and only steam comes out the top.

The wool says up to 1300°.
 
Now that I'm finally getting to move in to the new house I'm keeping two wood stoves burning 24 hours a day; the house and the cabin. I'm installing a vent free propane heater in the "cabin", which will become my fur shed once we're all moved out. That way I'll have heat without having to burn the wood stove all night.
 
Extreme heat in the chimney draws better and burns the oils completely and only steam comes out the top.
That's where I made the mistake when I installed the wood stove in the cabin. I went with tripple wall pipe through the ceiling and above the roof. In my climate I should have used double wall pipe. Tripple wall pipe doesn't get hot enough so it builds up with soot. That's why I need to clean my chimney every 6 weeks or so.
 
If you can get a thermometer that reads up to 1000 degrees F. and drill a hole in the pipe about 3 feet up, you can adjust the flue until the right draft speed is found. A true blue hot chimney draws out to around 750 to 800 degrees. At 800, the metal turns red hot. The hotter burn will reduce the soot unless you are using wood with a too high moisture content or too much pine or evergreen wood with a high pitch and resin content. Not saying you're that dumb, but that would be the only other reason for so much soot, Do you only have one flue in the stove or another on the pipe also?
 
If you can get a thermometer that reads up to 1000 degrees F. and drill a hole in the pipe about 3 feet up, you can adjust the flue until the right draft speed is found. A true blue hot chimney draws out to around 750 to 800 degrees. At 800, the metal turns red hot. The hotter burn will reduce the soot unless you are using wood with a too high moisture content or too much pine or evergreen wood with a high pitch and resin content. Not saying you're that dumb, but that would be the only other reason for so much soot, Do you only have one flue in the stove or another on the pipe also?
From the stove to the ceiling I use single wall pipe, with a damper. Thats not the issue. From the ceiling through the roof up to the cap is tripple wall pipe. That's where I'm told by an "expert" the problem is. According to him I need to change it out to double wall so that it'll get hot enough to burn the soot out. It's pretty easy to clean so I'm in no hurry to buy more pipe.
I only burn dead dry Western larch or Doug fir. No paper, trash or anything other than dry wood.
We'll see. The chimney on the house is much longer than the cabin and it's double wall pipe. It goes through two stories.
 
OK, thought you would only burn the good stuff, just had to say something that sounded smart. The longer the chimney the more air pressure from above. Meaning the hotter the exhaust needs to be to compensate and rise fast to make a good draw. Do you have a wind spinner on the top of the chimney? There is a piece of funny shaped metal the truckers put on top of their diesel exhaust stacks. Its' form makes a double tornado behind this metal which pulls the exhaust out of the tall pipes and lets the motor better "exhale", which increases motor power and decreases fuel consumption. If you could see how they are shaped and build one onto your chimney, you might get better results.
 
Worked about 4 hours cutting kindling sized wood with a reciprocating saw. When I stopped and went into house. I literally had to pull myself up when I sat down. Immediately got an ice pack and viola, I was walking within an hour.

I had to go into woods to find limbs we had drug into the trees to hide them before the wedding 2 years ago. Some were over seasoned, but....

My neighbor came over and showed me hackberry trees. He said they were a medium hard wood and didn't have to season as long. These have been down since the big storm in the Summer. Now I know what to cut next.
 

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