Interested to hear opinions and reasoning on if a 7.3 diesel would be a good vehicle to acquire currently considering the state of things and prices etc.
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7.3 a good idea right now?
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What is a 7.3?
7.3 "Million mile engine" found in Ford trucks from mid 90's through 2001. My F350 has one and I love it. That said, it isn't exactly my "everyday driver".
why not? I'm wondering about diesel prices vs increased mileage and reliability vs maintenance costs etc.
Because I also have a 250 that gets better fuel milage and can haul most of what I need on a daily basis.
This is what I'm getting at with my question. Can you give details please? What is the 250 packing? What's your mileage with it vs the 7.3? What are your maintenance cost differences? Etc.
My God it is literally impossible to get an answer to any question asked on this forum. It's like magic. If you asked which direction the sky is, you wouldn't get an answer. I think I might try that.
If you want detailed answers, ask detailed questions.
That is comparing apples to oranges or a 1999 ford manual flatbed to a 2014 ram automatic. with regular bed...non-DEF system to DEF system.
What I can tell you is why we bought it.
1 ) If an emp hit, fewer parts to have to replace (fewer electronic components)
2) Don't need to pay someone to fix it when something does break
3) I got it for under 10,000 with less than 200,000 mi
4) It easily tows a loaded 4 horse trailer with living quarters or 12 1200# round bales in hilly terrain
5) has a reputation for being reliable and so far has stood up to that reputation
6) No DEF fluid to have to stock up on along with fuel
Like any truck, whether it is worth it or not depends on whether or not you actually need it or if it is a "red neck wanna be" purchase to fulfill some image fantasy .
It makes me money because It lets me do my job. It is our bug out vehicle in case of TEOTWAWKI. It gets maybe 10 miles to the gallon when hauling...about the same as the 250 but, I am often hauling heavier loads with the 350. So far it is reliable in part because it has no electronic BS to deal with. AND NO PAYMENTS.
Alright, which 7.3 are you even talking? There is a Ford 7.3L diesel and a Ford 7.3L gasoline engine. Cummins makes the 5.9L 12-valve which is different from their 5.9L 24-valve -both of which are diesels.
The Ford 7.3L diesel and Cummins 5.9L 6BT 12-valve have mechanical fuel pumps and no computers to run them. They are not crippled by all the emissions controls contribute to some reliability issues of newer diesels.
Your question on the doomsdayprepperforums was: "7.3 a good idea right now?"
If you are into prepping and you want a diesel, then the Ford 7.3L diesel or Cummins 5.9 12-valve are always a good idea.
If you want gas and good mileage, the 7.3 is the wrong class of truck to begin with.
Are you sure about that?
I love that this board has an Ignore feature.
Looks like you're right. Much newer than anything I'd look at but I was unlcear. I'll modify my post. (Of course, you still didn't come close to answering the question. But I appreciate the correction.)
It all depends on the 7.3. Are we talking the older 7.3 IDI, or the newer 7.3DI. The older one is all mechanical, the newer one common rail and has a computer with electronic injectors.
I'd personally stay away from anything common rail. Banks made a turbo kit for the older IDI engines, if you can find one.
And personally I'd go with the older 5.9L Cummins, preferably with a P-Pump.
There's a reason why people always do Cummins swaps, not that many 7.3 swaps.
I drive a 1983 Mercedes 300D daily, I bought it because it's all mechanical, has a turbo stock, and is easily converted to a manual transmission, which I did to mine. As EMP proof as you can get.
I'd personally stay away from anything common rail. Banks made a turbo kit for the older IDI engines, if you can find one.
And personally I'd go with the older 5.9L Cummins, preferably with a P-Pump.
There's a reason why people always do Cummins swaps, not that many 7.3 swaps.
I drive a 1983 Mercedes 300D daily, I bought it because it's all mechanical, has a turbo stock, and is easily converted to a manual transmission, which I did to mine. As EMP proof as you can get.
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That's good information, all around, thank you. I know more about the 7.3, and I know to look for 5.9L Cummins with P-pumps (so is that 1997 and earlier dodge rams?)
I do see the argument about EMP-proofing, and that is one concern. It's not one of mine really but it is a thing people worry about. So I don't have a real full answer the question of whether an older, big, mechanical diesel is a good idea right now.
"currently considering the state of things and prices etc." is the question. That means supply chain issues, fuel costs, maintenance costs if there is something I can't do myself, etc. Do you have any insight into that sort of thing, especially driving a diesel as you do? Those mercs are great by the way, but only in warmer weather and good-ish roads, I think? And can you even get shocks for them anymore?
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the last ford with the 7.3 non turbo (not a fan of turbos they break and are costly to replace)
was a F250 4x4 and was getting 18mpg,,, you can get that kind of mileage out of many pickups but not the towing power,,, in the winter for it to start I had to plug in the block heater the night before so the truck would start.... I have had 3 of them they were all the same,,,, and the cooling system for the injectors leaked on all 3 no matter what I did to stop it,,,,,,,,,,, I will never have another one
all 3 were early 90s and non turbo,,,,,
You might try Permatex anaerobic sealer for leaks that won't ever seem to seal. I used that on my 300D's oil filter housing to block gaskets and haven't had a leak in over 5 years now. I also used it on the water pump, no issues. Good stuff.
