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Open-air hives are quite common here. I've seen a 100k+ bee colony completely outside. It doesn't really slow them down. But then we might get a day or two per year of freezing temperatures.

But I've seen colonies in all sorts of places. Inside a tire. Under a street sign. Plenty of them under a soffit. Often a colony get 'stuck' in open-air because they can't agree on a new location, they start building wax, the queen starts laying, and so they stay. It takes a kind BK to go get them & put them in a proper home.
 
I went to check the hives and was trying to pry open the deep in the middle. The hive started shifting on the cinder blocks and I almost freaked. I knew it was going to topple over and 40,000 bees were going to be really pissed.

It was so heavy, but I guess my adrenaline kicked in and I scooted the hive back up onto the blocks.

I'm going to buy some rebar and put two on each side so that the hives can't overturn. I'll leave the back and front open so I can remove the deeps from that angle. It is going to make it harder, but safer.
 
I went to check the hives and was trying to pry open the deep in the middle. The hive started shifting on the cinder blocks and I almost freaked. I knew it was going to topple over and 40,000 bees were going to be really pissed.
It was so heavy, but I guess my adrenaline kicked in and I scooted the hive back up onto the blocks.
I'm going to buy some rebar and put two on each side so that the hives can't overturn. I'll leave the back and front open so I can remove the deeps from that angle. It is going to make it harder, but safer.

40,000 angry bees? I call that Friday (or Monday, or Tuesday...)

Bad idea. You'll cause yourself more problems than help.

When you push on the hive from one side, hold it from the other with an equal and opposite force. Don't make this more complicated than it needs to be. KISS.

It sounds like your foundation is the problem. Solid, and wide enough for the hive to move a little & not fall off.
 
Robin,

Many people simply do the crush & strain method for some time. For a hive or three, or even 10, an extractor is not a necessity. It's not as fast, but it doesn't really matter. You're not doing in a production environment. But a little 2 frame extractor isn't that expensive ($100 or less?) and is a good learning tool. My biggest thing would be where to store things like this. And to a degree, it's a good learning thing to do crush & strain.
 
Robin,

Many people simply do the crush & strain method for some time. For a hive or three, or even 10, an extractor is not a necessity. It's not as fast, but it doesn't really matter. You're not doing in a production environment. But a little 2 frame extractor isn't that expensive ($100 or less?) and is a good learning tool. My biggest thing would be where to store things like this. And to a degree, it's a good learning thing to do crush & strain.

I'm just hoping mine live through the winter. I put my ear to the hive and heard the buzzing. I dread when I open and have to hunt for the queen. I'm not good at that.
 
Don't go looking for the queen. It's too cold, and what difference does it make? If she's not there, what would you do? Lift one end and make sure it feels heavy enough. If you get a warm day, give them some sugar water.
 
Don't go looking for the queen. It's too cold, and what difference does it make? If she's no

t there, what would you do? Lift one end and make sure it feels heavy enough. If you get a warm day, give them some sugar water.

I wasn't clear. I meant in the Spring. No way would I look for a queen now
 
Robin, specify you want a VENTED suit. A number of companies make them. Even in TN, it'll make a big difference. And they're not that much more, I've seen them in the $100-150 range even for good ones. Or, make the receipt is kept...
 
Only 2 weeks later & I'm just now seeing this. Yup, a full 10frame honey super weighs about 50 lbs. Good news, friends don't let friends lift deep honey boxes! They weigh about 90 lbs. You can look at a 8 frame medium, but they're still 40 lbs. That's why all beekeepers have bad backs.

Try this with the smoker. Get some cow pies (well dried big ole piece of cow manure). Right out of the field is best because they're still in big chunks. Break it into chunks about the size of your fist. Put some torn cardboard in the bottom of your smoker & light it. Once going, put a piece or two of cow pie in there. Don't pack down, you want air flow. Get the manure lit (pump for a minute). Once started, the manure burns very cool and burns for a long time. Check it every 20 minutes, add more if needed.

To light the cow pie quicker, use a blow torch. 30 seconds and it's lit and going well.
 
I'll stick to the pine shavings. Lol. I have the new supers on and hopefully I will have capped honey this year. Hopefully the new hive will produce enough for the Winter.

I found some weird flying things hanging out at the hive last night. Not wasps or yellow jackets. I killed them all, but will check today when the light is better. I'm hoping they aren't robbers of some type,
 
OK, but your loss. Cow pies really do work well, incredibly well. But if you stick with shavings, be sure to keep adding more fuel. No smoke = big problems. Any idea what the night fliers were?
 
OK, but your loss. Cow pies really do work well, incredibly well. But if you stick with shavings, be sure to keep adding more fuel. No smoke = big problems. Any idea what the night fliers were?

I found one in the pool so I got a good pic. Sent it to my mentor and he didn't know what it was, so it must not be on the bee list of predators.
 
Robin,
That is a 100% local and hive-specific. We've already been harvesting for a month down here. This is a question for your local mentor. You also need to consider the condition of each individual hive. Some are more productive and ready to take the honey, others struggle and need everything they have. Different regions also need to leave different amounts of honey for their colonies to survive the local winter.
 
Robin,
That is a 100% local and hive-specific. We've already been harvesting for a month down here. This is a question for your local mentor. You also need to consider the condition of each individual hive. Some are more productive and ready to take the honey, others struggle and need everything they have. Different regions also need to leave different amounts of honey for their colonies to survive the local winter.

I was afraid you would say that it's time. It's too hot to suit up for a long period of time. I don't look forward to that. I have a meeting tomorrow night and I find out when my mentor is going to harvest. He said I could help him and learn.
 
At the meeting last night, the speaker was showing how he is marketing his honey.

Honey straws $1
A 5 oz vial of "reindeer fuel" at Christmas. $5
Lip balm $5

He doesn't sell much be the quart because he can make more money this way. Of course, there is much more work and marketing involved.

I'll just be happy to get a few quarts.

My mentor says I can come over next week to watch him harvest. Geez, I hope it cooler. I don't know how he was doin g it this week. 100° heat index without being fully suited. I don't want to be embarrassed in front of a 75 year old man who can handle heat better than I.
 
Robin, remember honey is sold by weight, not volume. So a 16 (liquid) ounce jar weighs well over one pound.

Good job! And it's the best tasting liquid gold you've ever had.
 
Robin,
That is really cheap, both you and the market. But it varies across the country.
First, you need to stop using the term 'pint' / 'quart'. You need to measure it in weight.

Your 'pint' is more than one pound. 1 lb sells for $12 by me. 2 lbs (less than the quart) sells for $20. The smaller the jar size, the better your $/lb. Many people sell 8 oz or 6 oz bears.

Again, ask your mentor. Local prices vary. But everyone goes by weight.
 
Robin,
That is really cheap, both you and the market. But it varies across the country.
First, you need to stop using the term 'pint' / 'quart'. You need to measure it in weight.

Your 'pint' is more than one pound. 1 lb sells for $12 by me. 2 lbs (less than the quart) sells for $20. The smaller the jar size, the better your $/lb. Many people sell 8 oz or 6 oz bears.

Again, ask your mentor. Local prices vary. But everyone goes by weight.


My mentor is the one that gave me the price. I don't have enough to make a profit. It basically for my son to think he is selling his product. Like I sell my eggs for only $2 per dozen. It's mostly a hobby.
 
OK, those are cheap prices. And $2 eggs? Yikes, $4-5/dozen around me for yard eggs. I'm not sure the $2/dozen covers the feed costs?

Keep in mind, you don't make money on day one... things take time to ramp up. Remember that you want to sell the 'local, chemical-free' 100% honey part of your product. 3/4th of honey sold in 'stores' are fake honey and legally can't be called honey. There is a saying, "if you don't know the beekeeper, how do you know it's real honey?" Sell that aspect.
 

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