10'x6' 9" thick section runs between $3500 a section, you can make it longer by adding sections
Box Culverts (forget the used containers) just a thought
- Thread starter Maverick
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True that but so does containers, though these are far stronger then cinder blocks and better water seal especially for burial and definitely stronger then containers, also these offer better gamma protection from gamma radiation compared to cinder, cinder would require more earth then these culverts. These should offer another alternative to the containers
had I the place..and the money..those culverts would be something to have and build from,using cinder blocks absolutely a real possibility..have it inside my head how I want it,want the roof as an arch,just need the place first.
The roof is the tricky part. Just be sure to have lots of support. The earth above (a traditional bomb shelter) weighs a LOT. The arch idea sounds good structurally, but could be pretty customized and expensive. The culverts in the pic are a pretty good size for a shelter. A bit tight, sure, but as long as the design took advantage of the tube-like structure (imagining at least 3 or more of these together), it'd certainly be functional, and already be fully capable of supporting the earth above, no other support needed. All you'd have to do is get two of the end piece culverts with cutouts for the blast doors (main entrance and escape tunnel).
Drilling through for the vents, etc. will be a bitch though, but doable with the right tools (especially if you do so in the joints between culverts, so that should feature in your design planning). There are different shaped culverts too, that could help in more diverse designs.
Drilling through for the vents, etc. will be a bitch though, but doable with the right tools (especially if you do so in the joints between culverts, so that should feature in your design planning). There are different shaped culverts too, that could help in more diverse designs.
I like the idea of those culverts, especially for underground. But they are expensive, about 3x containers it seems.
I have a mate who used to sell concrete pipes, don't remember the prices but maybe they would be cheaper, harder to fitout out though being round.
I have a mate who used to sell concrete pipes, don't remember the prices but maybe they would be cheaper, harder to fitout out though being round.
what if you use a large enough pipe,cut it length wise in half,those two halves will be the roof,rest you build using cinder-blocks??
that's something I think every time I see a work site with large enough concrete pipes...I know it's a VERY hard job to cut them in half,but it could work.
that's something I think every time I see a work site with large enough concrete pipes...I know it's a VERY hard job to cut them in half,but it could work.
I don't think the arch would be too tough to form. I had some 3/8" plywood that I used for the roof form. Most would say it's too light to support the weight of the cement, but I simply added more support underneath. I only used it as I got it really cheap, but the point here is it's very flexible. You just make your supports longer in the center to create the arch. I would suggest doubling the layers of the thinner plywood, just to be safe. When pouring an arch you would also keep the cement fairly dry too. It won't flow down the sides of the arch as much, and it's actually stronger when you add less water. Most of this stuff is a lot more Braun than brain.
I just came in from working outside all day. I'm beat! I got the last layers of sealing done on the shelter, and threw about an inch of dirt on it, mostly to make me feel like it's moving along. I had troweled a coating of fibered foundation coating on it earlier, and let it dry. Today I troweled roof cement on it and then put 30 lb felt paper onto it. Lastly I put a sheet of plastic over all of it. Between all that and the French drain I laid around it, I think it will stay dry. My next step is to seal the inside with dry lock. It's just a brand of masonry sealer, and there are several others out there. It feels good to finish another step on this thing. Sealing, shelving, and a door and I'm in buisness! Yeah!the day I start with my own project,it will be a walk in the park,I just come here,open the thread and voila'; tons of advice that makes life so much easier
Hmmm prices must be different from stuff in the US, Someonne over here worked out that burying a re-enforced shipping iso container worked out cheaper
I have just ordered a new front door to replace the UPVC door currently in use, the UPVC door is only 5 years old but its falling apart so I'm putting a Composite door in to replace it, these are good for 25 years and much more secure. The vid is worth watching.
most of the doors open inwards here too, no law here dictates that, I think it's more of a thing as being a custom to and a convenience when the hands are full
in commercial buildings codes are different and in certain cases may dictate how the door swings
If you live near the coast or in a hurricane area (high wind area) then all the doors open outwards, but inland most of the country open inwards. An inward door supposedly is less likely to leak in a blowing rain. I personally agree, the added security/strength of an outward opening door is smart. Put an awning over it if concerned about leaks. I would have done it on this house, but all the doors in stock around here are inward. You have to order, and pay more for outwards ones. In fla. it's the other way around.
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Just tradition I believe as the older very narrow terraces and streets where the front and rear doors opened straight onto the street were the normal thing, folks were not permitted in such places to have outward opening doors and windows to prevent impeding people walking on the street, plus we don't have blooding great critters trying to get into the house to eat them. But the rules do not matter when it comes to inward or outward opening UPVC doors because if you look at the video you see the actual door frames and locks remain intact and in place, but the inner panel gets kicked in. A Grizz, Wolf, Moose, Bison could easily access our homes.
Most people fit supplementary re-enforcement to their doors like London bars etc
Most people fit supplementary re-enforcement to their doors like London bars etc
I recently read an article from the US ( I think) where they do have big predators like wolves, bears, big cats etc but this old dude reckoned the absolute worst thing you can have get into your home is not a bear or a skunk, but critters called a Honey Badger or a Wolverine. This guy had one once that eaten its way through their back door. The guy said he shot it twice with a 38 cal revolver and it only made the critter angry. The home owner had to flee as did his dogs. We only have Were-rabbits to worry about, they are related to Jackalopes.
im not sure,and wont swear to it..but i think a law was passed when it comes to doors in commercial buildings where they have to open out ward.due to,to many ppl dying from fires and all...
we have our share of bear problems from time to time but cougars are a bigger threat but only if the door is left open, badgers and wolverine's prefer the chicken coup, the wolves pretty much stay away from the homes, your more opt to get a buck or doe inside the home then a bear. The biggest threats is coyotes, cougars, bobcats, lynx and the pist off buck during rut
My son just showed my a clip on the Pc about Honey badgers and wolverines, bloody hell they are like Tasmanian devils with a hang over
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