I need the best or second best (NASA level) "EPOXY" for a project. It can't shrink.

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Needs to cure hard. And no shrinkage.

a) What are you Bonding? (just the Materials - don't need to 'break OPSEC' about yer Project.. :) asking, as..

b) Depending on the Materials to-be Bonded.. the "Best Non-Shrinking NASA-Level Bond" will be via one of the 'UV-Cure Epoxy's..

I used to use some of that stuff for building Optical sub-assemblies (in a 'Clean Room', under a stereo-microscope) for Laser-systems, where the Parts had to not only 'last' - thru Impact / Vibration / Heat/Cold - whatever - but to NOT 'shrink', down to tolerances of keeping a Laser-diode's beam focused in a particular-point thru a Crystal - to a couple "nm"s (that's Nano-meters :oops: And That stuff Did it. :cool: Yah, it's 'NASA-grade' alright.. 👍

..That's Also a reason it's the Top Choice for restorative Dental work - Keeping Porcelain / Zirconium, etc Crowns / Veneers, etc, in-place - thru heat / cold / Extreme Pressure from biting / chewing, etc... impacts from Errant Forks ;) etc.. - and For Years, so..

Let me know more about yer 'Materials to Bond', and I'll check my sources / see if there's a Good match.. :cool:

PS - Good 'Pro-grade Adhesives' resource for some Research: https://www.gluespec.com/ 👍

jd
 
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Filling a "plastic" firearms buttstock that I cut in half.

Ah, well in That case, I would also second 'JB Weld' 👍 (the 'regular / classic' 2 part, Not the 'Steel Weld'..) It's 'low-shrink Enough', I believe for This application, anyway, and Definitely 'tough enough' for it.. ie:

..Recall my 'Brake Job'? - https://www.homesteadingforum.org/t...hat-was-gun-related.5407/page-105#post-642147 ..Well, turned out I just could NOT get the 'silver solder' to take to Re-solder the Front Sight, there - Apparently, the barrel (though Plenty 'cherry red Hot'..) was acting like a 'heat-sink' / just Not letting the solder 'take' properly (Im betting the Factory puts the Whole dang Barrel in like a coke-oven or something, when they Initially solder those on, it was a Biotch to get off.. o_O ) so..

..I gave up on that approach, and just tacked the sight on / 'potted it' between the side-clamp 'teeth' with JB Weld... And it's been Rock Solid, since (yes, Including surviving the 'shock & heat' of shooting that puppy round after round after... :cool:

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So, yah, I'd bet on JB Weld for yer Stock-job, Cap'n. 👍

Fwiw..
jd
 
Then JB Weld it shall be. Thank You.

Aye, just be Sure to clean the surfaces / bond-edges Really Good of any finger-oil / grease / dust, etc.. I will usually use Acetone, which - depending on the type of Plastic (and I'd Bet pretty much Any gun stock can 'survive it'..) - will give the surfaces to be bonded some 'tooth'.. 👍 JB Weld likes 'tooth'. :)

Actually - Maybe scratch that.. I just now :rolleyes: 'fully absorbed' Post #5 - "Filling" - as-in, "filling" a Large cavity / hollow? 🤔 How Big is the 'pocket' in the part that's left over? More than half an Inch wide / deep? If so, well..

In That case, I'd propose 'Gasket Maker' Black RTV, then.. Readily avail. at just about any Auto Parts store ('Auto Zone' / O'Reilly's / NAPA, etc) I've Also used that to Quite good success on my 'Wood-Forestock Mod-Job' for the Henry X, as a 'gap filler', ie:

Hx-Stock-Mod-Fin1-sm.jpg
Hx-Stock-Mod-Fin2-sm.jpg
:cool:

..Final result: Every-bit as Tough as the 'OEM poly-forestock', there, and No Problemo with the 'heat' from the barrel when shooting, etc (Remember: 'Gasket Maker' RTV is Designed to go onto / into Engine Blocks, so.. Yah, it's also Tough Enough, and should Not 'shrink' much, if at all.. 👍

.02
jd
 
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