Needs to cure hard. And no shrinkage.
I need the best or second best (NASA level) "EPOXY" for a project. It can't shrink.
- Thread starter Sourdough
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NASA approves Master Bond Supreme 10HT! I googled that just now, you might Google it too and check it out!!
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I like JB weld
a) What are you Bonding? (just the Materials - don't need to 'break OPSEC' about yer Project..
asking, as..b) Depending on the Materials to-be Bonded.. the "Best Non-Shrinking NASA-Level Bond" will be via one of the 'UV-Cure Epoxy's..
I used to use some of that stuff for building Optical sub-assemblies (in a 'Clean Room', under a stereo-microscope) for Laser-systems, where the Parts had to not only 'last' - thru Impact / Vibration / Heat/Cold - whatever - but to NOT 'shrink', down to tolerances of keeping a Laser-diode's beam focused in a particular-point thru a Crystal - to a couple "nm"s (that's Nano-meters
And That stuff Did it. Yah, it's 'NASA-grade' alright.. 
..That's Also a reason it's the Top Choice for restorative Dental work - Keeping Porcelain / Zirconium, etc Crowns / Veneers, etc, in-place - thru heat / cold / Extreme Pressure from biting / chewing, etc... impacts from Errant Forks
etc.. - and For Years, so..Let me know more about yer 'Materials to Bond', and I'll check my sources / see if there's a Good match..
PS - Good 'Pro-grade Adhesives' resource for some Research: https://www.gluespec.com/
jd
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Filling a "plastic" firearms buttstock that I cut in half.
Ah, well in That case, I would also second 'JB Weld'
(the 'regular / classic' 2 part, Not the 'Steel Weld'..) It's 'low-shrink Enough', I believe for This application, anyway, and Definitely 'tough enough' for it.. ie:..Recall my 'Brake Job'? - https://www.homesteadingforum.org/t...hat-was-gun-related.5407/page-105#post-642147 ..Well, turned out I just could NOT get the 'silver solder' to take to Re-solder the Front Sight, there - Apparently, the barrel (though Plenty 'cherry red Hot'..) was acting like a 'heat-sink' / just Not letting the solder 'take' properly (Im betting the Factory puts the Whole dang Barrel in like a coke-oven or something, when they Initially solder those on, it was a Biotch to get off..
) so....I gave up on that approach, and just tacked the sight on / 'potted it' between the side-clamp 'teeth' with JB Weld... And it's been Rock Solid, since (yes, Including surviving the 'shock & heat' of shooting that puppy round after round after...
So, yah, I'd bet on JB Weld for yer Stock-job, Cap'n.
Fwiw..
jd
Then JB Weld it shall be. Thank You.
JB Weld likes 'tooth'. Actually - Maybe scratch that.. I just now
'fully absorbed' Post #5 - "Filling" - as-in, "filling" a Large cavity / hollow? 
How Big is the 'pocket' in the part that's left over? More than half an Inch wide / deep? If so, well..In That case, I'd propose 'Gasket Maker' Black RTV, then.. Readily avail. at just about any Auto Parts store ('Auto Zone' / O'Reilly's / NAPA, etc) I've Also used that to Quite good success on my 'Wood-Forestock Mod-Job' for the Henry X, as a 'gap filler', ie:
..Final result: Every-bit as Tough as the 'OEM poly-forestock', there, and No Problemo with the 'heat' from the barrel when shooting, etc (Remember: 'Gasket Maker' RTV is Designed to go onto / into Engine Blocks, so.. Yah, it's also Tough Enough, and should Not 'shrink' much, if at all..
.02
jd
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The H&R (very limited edition) 300 AAC BLACKOUT now has an 8" LOP and 26.5" OAL. It will be utilized/fired much like an ENCORE handgun. But it remains a legal rifle.
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Actually, there is no need to even fill that void, other the appearance/looks.
Entry point for Dust / gook into buffer-spring seat? I'm just guessing, Obviously You know best, so.. At least ya Gots Options.. jd
I took 3.5" off the buttstock to get 26.5" OAL. So, if it looks short in the photo it is now goofy short.
