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We cut five acres of grass & weeds for loose hay, not baled, one summer. I can not imagine cutting by hand on my knees & hauling on my back to the hay barn or roof.
Only "Slightly" relevant to this thread (but was very educational for me). I wish I could show some photos that DO NOT exist of these root formations. I have spent this past summer learning about root systems of trees that their entire root system only goes down about 5" and runs near the surface. What is interesting to me, a near six decades woodfire user, I never thought about the root systems. Truly never gave them any thought, was only interested in logging application. This post is going to be non-sensible without photos.
I can often work these trees that are 4" to 5" diameter out of the shallow ground with no tools just rocking them back & forth for a few minutes each day, till they just leave the ground, including the total root system down to the smallest thinnest tiny hair root. I then set the entire tree in a barn to dry out. Maybe my point is the dried root wad including the tiny hair roots would be great for fire, and I have long considered roots worthless pain in the butt.
here is something else, a lot of our property is forest, but it is extremely difficult and probably dangerous never mind time consuming to turn these trees into firewood. You have to cut them down with a large chainsaw ( son does this mostly) , I can't even hold that chainsaw and use it properly because it is too heavy. Then you have to cut the tree up into small pieces, then you have to somehow transport if off a steep mountain , then you have to split is ( that one is fairly easy compared to the rest of the stuff, I can even do that with a ax) THEN you have to stack it, then you have to carry it inside when you want to make a fire. People think " oh, we have lots of trees, we can just use them for firewood and stuff" but it REALLY is not that easy at allSee, it's one aspect many miss in higher elevation or treeless areas. With some water they might grow a crop of alfalfa for hay but often they grow a grain, either wheat or barley, and feed chaff to livestock to then get fuel to cook with from poop. It's a complete system of survival.
Much of the east coast was stripped to the dirt of trees in many areas back in the day because they used it for smelting the big old furnaces for ores, from iron to lead, etc.
I have talked a good bit over the years with Gary Walker who use to be on old forum and designs various masonry stoves/rocket cook stoves etc. He and i talked about how when getting older the advantages of these types stoves as they use smallest of wood that dont need splitting and how it takes advantage of storing up all the btu's from that wood that can possibly be.here is something else, a lot of our property is forest, but it is extremely difficult and probably dangerous never mind time consuming to turn these trees into firewood. You have to cut them down with a large chainsaw ( son does this mostly) , I can't even hold that chainsaw and use it properly because it is too heavy. Then you have to cut the tree up into small pieces, then you have to somehow transport if off a steep mountain , then you have to split is ( that one is fairly easy compared to the rest of the stuff, I can even do that with a ax) THEN you have to stack it, then you have to carry it inside when you want to make a fire. People think " oh, we have lots of trees, we can just use them for firewood and stuff" but it REALLY is not that easy at all
Maybe figure on an "optional" access by low grade ramp. For human & dog ingress & egress. Also, you can slide things up a ramp that you could never lift.plus so i am looking towards building designers on Alaska as they design and come up with new and better solutions.If it keeps cold out surly it keep the heat out as well in hot summer too.
I break out my 0 degree North face bag in winter here..a few blankets on top and I'm pretty cozy on days I work and don't have the time or energy to start up my wood stove.I have talked a good bit over the years with Gary Walker who use to be on old forum and designs various masonry stoves/rocket cook stoves etc. He and i talked about how when getting older the advantages of these types stoves as they use smallest of wood that dont need splitting and how it takes advantage of storing up all the btu's from that wood that can possibly be.
Having a wood lot thats on rotational coppiceing schedule keeps the wood you are cutting small and very limited splitting and fits the amount you need daily as well. Another advantage as it can be cut with a silky saw or bow saw with no need for a chainsaw and also from wood just picked up from mature trees dropping limbs.Some pines have large cones and make a hot fire as well.I have used them to cook with in a chimney type rocket cooker.A lightweight pack basket or just a frame can pack a decent load that still light enough for anyone to get back home with.
The pack frame also goes back to one of items @Sourdough harps on along with the sleeping bag.All of this has caused me to rethink my design for my new place i hope to build and have it so it runs on little heat to stay warm and if i having troubles as i age i just say screw it and crawl in sleeping bag and not die.I want walls to be extra thick say 8inches or maybe even a foot.Sadly my architect friend who designed stuff all over the globe was killed a few years ago so i lost access to all his outside the box design and knowledge.I have one fellow who can help but he is now 75 plus so i am looking towards building designers on Alaska as they design and come up with new and better solutions.If it keeps cold out surely it keep the heat out as well in hot summer too.
We have a gazzillion pound Pioneer Princess Amish cook stove, and another wood stove that is old , huge and super heavy too. We burn about 6 cords or more of wood in winter. Our house is not efficient despite insulation. It's sort of U shaped with long hallways and lots of windows. Great in summer, never need ac, hard to heat in winter. I finally put up curtains to shut off the area to the hallways to keep the heat in the living area. We now heat the bedrooms with propane space heaters since it is almost impossible to get heat back thereI have talked a good bit over the years with Gary Walker who use to be on old forum and designs various masonry stoves/rocket cook stoves etc. He and i talked about how when getting older the advantages of these types stoves as they use smallest of wood that dont need splitting and how it takes advantage of storing up all the btu's from that wood that can possibly be.
There ya go with more of that dirty talk on forum again....lolI break out my 0 degree North face bag in winter here..a few blankets on top and I'm pretty cozy on days I work and don't have the time or energy to start up my wood stove.
I've decided I want to do a hybrid kinda underground earthship/ basement hobbit home. Cool in summer, cozy in winter, small stove if I need it. Overenginerred metal roof like a quanzit hut roof able to withstand, large hail, crazy wind and extra heavy snow loads that it will shed.
I don't want to fiddle around with being old and worried about snow loads or being warm in winter.
Another part of my design @Hooch and you sonya is real working shudders on outside and insulated curtains on inside and maybe even shudders on inside as well...call me crazy...but its on my mind.We have a gazzillion pound Pioneer Princess Amish cook stove, and another wood stove that is old , huge and super heavy too. We burn about 6 cords or more of wood in winter. Our house is not efficient despite insulation. It's sort of U shaped with long hallways and lots of windows. Great in summer, never need ac, hard to heat in winter. I finally put up curtains to shut off the area to the hallways to keep the heat in the living area. We now heat the bedrooms with propane space heaters since it is almost impossible to get heat back there
Lol...isn't bigger better?There ya go with more of that dirty talk on forum again....lol
I thought about an earthship but they are to big i dont know why they dont build smaller ones.I have seen a couple of smaller ones but still to large.
yes...having double shudders is way to keep bears out or gives you double the chance...plus in my deep wall design it gives me a ledge to set plants on it late winter/early spring to have them ready to go in garden as early as possible and not deal with a greenhouse and all that involves too.I am super big on BLACKOUT Curtains. For many reasons, especially "NO" light signature.......post-SHTF.
I am sure I have a few Blackout Curtain threads on this forum. Found some.
https://www.homesteadingforum.org/s...[title_only]=1&c[users]=Sourdough&o=relevance
I use them..they do pretty good at keeping heat out too if it's a hot day.I am super big on BLACKOUT Curtains. For many reasons, especially "NO" light signature.......post-SHTF.
I am sure I have a few Blackout Curtain threads on this forum. Found some.
https://www.homesteadingforum.org/s...[title_only]=1&c[users]=Sourdough&o=relevance
Well, I beg to differ when for thousands of years people often at least traveled to these types of area to gather game and other resources and often to graze livestock even.
Some not all....these people had a choice...per first hand stuff and they themselves after being forcibly removed by canadian govt...they told how they they moved to coastlines like other eskimos did and none of them liked it so returned to barren lands as its called.They didnt even like to build the traditional ice igloos we all think of once they learned it from coastals.They held out till it was coldest it would get before building or moving into one.They preferred their caribou skin homes per themselves.They where all nomads, Nobody 'lived' there by choice.
You can survive anywhere.
Some places are just a lot harder than others.
they have roll down shudders in Germany, those are great. But never seen anything like it in the US and if they do have them it would probably cost a small fortune. We have a ton of windowsAnother part of my design @Hooch and you sonya is real working shudders on outside and insulated curtains on inside and maybe even shudders on inside as well...call me crazy...but its on my mind.
I understand the days of figuring out how to do it alone. My dog room washer started leaking when I was in the hospital. My son put one of the dog create plastic bottoms under the washer to catch the water. Ya had to use a shop vac to drain the water. Anyway got a new washer. Stupid me didnt have the delivery men hook it up. Now 3 weeks later im trying to think I dont want to bust the create bottom. They are kinda pricey to replace. So I just visit my new and old washer from time to time.Maybe figure on an "optional" access by low grade ramp. For human & dog ingress & egress. Also, you can slide things up a ramp that you could never lift.
Last week I needed to move a chest type freezer and had pondered for a few weeks how one old man could accomplish that task alone. I took an old piece of carpet, put the carpet side down.
I taped the lid down on the freezer, carefully worked it onto the carpet, and very slowly dragged it to a different dwelling. It dragged easily; the challenge was it wanting to roll off sideways.
they have roll down shudders in Germany, those are great. But never seen anything like it in the US and if they do have them it would probably cost a small fortune. We have a ton of windows
I would just take them out and build walls in the holes.I live in an old school. It is very well built and insulated except for the windows. Although they are modern double pane glass, they are 4'2" high and 7' wide. There are six this size. The windows are in 3 sections with the middle section opening outwards. The 2 side sections do not move.
We built insulated sliding panels and tracks in front of the windows. The middle section slides over if we want to open the window, or, they can all be removed. We had the same 100° heat this summer as down south. We never had to use an air conditioner. Inside temps never went over 72°F.
We are now building a 2nd set of heavier duty insulated shutters to go over the outside of the windows as well, for winter, to keep an air gap around the metal frames and prevent condensation build up. This should keep heat loss to a bare minimum.
Added benefits are privacy, total blackout and no broken windows.
Go outside.Then you lose the options of light and fresh air. These panels can be opened as desired.
Go outside.
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