Bandsaw mill build

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Are the trailer frames tubing or channel? tubing tends to be more flex resistant, and due to no physical edge among other things crack resistant. Things to think about, saw dust removal, some sort of a solvent tank that can drip on the inner surface of the blade, in case of conifer pitch build up. the afore mentioned travel system can be run as part of the saw carriage, so the controls / power source can travel with the saw head, I will see if I can find an image and link it

I've got options for water / lube tanks tubing and valves. I'll use whichever tank fit's best. I must have ten or more old cans fuel tanks water jugs etc. I can choose from. I also keep a supply of 1/4 turn 1/4 inch valves and lines.
 
I don't know why but I got the impression this was going to be a portable rig. I am now questioning that thought.
If it is going to be portable then you will need to be able to level it before cutting begins. If it is going to be a fixed unit then you can lay a level foundation and build it strong enough from there to assure a straight and level cut.
 
It is going to be portable but I also want it to have a good solid base anywhere we choose to set it up. So it loos like it will have 9 or 11 jacks and or stabilizers under it.
 
Weather is still fouling up the plans for this so we serviced the tractor today and a few other maintenance items. We also put restore in the tractor after I saw on this sight project farm's test on it. Going to try some in the D4D also.

The other four pack of stabilizer jacks and the three PWM's for motor control came in today.
 
In preparation for cutting a lot of trees here soon I took the chains off the 4 chain saws I use the most and ran them through the HF bench grinder today. I am itching so bad to get the mill built but every time I turn around something else has put the brakes on that project. Still have to replace the pull rope on my little CS-330T I broke it yesterday at least I think it was yesterday. lol Memory was never my strong suit! Seems like I have more started but not yet finished projects going than anyone has the right to. Often times I get things as far as I can by myself and then have to wait for extra hands or the weather comes in and fouls things up like happened to my solar clearing. Rain came in before I got it done and now it's a swamp until the weather turns back this spring. I know right a day in the life of a homesteader! lol
 
I had a band mill years ago that operated on 3" angle iron rails. It had a dail to control the travel speed. It worked great, until the rails got wet or frosty then it slipped. It really needed a gear drive instead. It only had an 18 hp motor so it would bog down on frozen logs too. I still milled a lot of lumber with it.
My next mill was a Woodmizer all hydraulic with computer set works, debarker, laser site, log loader and 62 hp diesel motor. It was a high production mill and was a pleasure to operate. I'm actually thinking about buying another mill like this for my son and my daughters future husband.
 
I had a band mill years ago that operated on 3" angle iron rails. It had a dail to control the travel speed. It worked great, until the rails got wet or frosty then it slipped. It really needed a gear drive instead. It only had an 18 hp motor so it would bog down on frozen logs too. I still milled a lot of lumber with it.
My next mill was a Woodmizer all hydraulic with computer set works, debarker, laser site, log loader and 62 hp diesel motor. It was a high production mill and was a pleasure to operate. I'm actually thinking about buying another mill like this for my son and my daughters future husband.
Wow 62 hp that's quite a mill. Super 70?

I have two engines I can pick from both around 22 horse one a new gas V twin engine from Harbor Freight the other a used Yanmar 3cyl diesel. Gas would be a lot easier to setup but now that my SIL brought this diesel I know it would have more torque. Diesel is also a lot larger and heavier...
 
Trying to figure out whether to save this red oak log to saw or cut it up for firewood.
Sap wood is mostly rotted off and the heart wood is beautiful but has those little pin holes all through it. I know some people like this look for projects. It's been dead laying suspended above ground 2-3 years. I cut the smaller stuff for firewood today. Log is 20ish feet long and maybe 17 inches across the heart wood at the small end. The butt end was hollow up 4 or 5 feet so I got to good solid wood and left it there.

So should I save it for my mill or burn it for heat?

I think it would make some nice mantel pieces but I've been known to have strange tastes! lol
AIR and OPPORTUNITY is all that stands between you and your dreams.

Turing Timberland to Homestead Since 2008
 
So you've got 15' of pretty clear wood. At 17" you've got 300-400 board feet. Fair amount of lumber however you mill it.

I've had some red oak that we milled up. It was nice wood, but was very grainy. I used some as siding on my chicken coop as board and batten. Red Oak isn't as tight as White is. My Sis and BIL used a good part of the tree we took down for trim in a house they built. Turned out good. Not sure how well it would look as a 3-5" mantle piece. IMO The work holes are not a bad thing, unless it is very eaten up.

I probably would use a draw knife, bark spud, or something and strip the rot off to stop it where it is. Maybe cut you a mantle slab and take a close look before deciding further. It is good lumber, and really good firewood. Can't really go wrong
 
Tossing this out to you so you can see what others are charging.
this order is pine i believe it is 75 per board foot
here is the invoice
lumber cost.jpg
 
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